I have luckily never had a yeast infection but I have read online that you can get an infection from condoms (from chemicals on the lubricant) and birth control (from changing pH levels). I was wondering if anyone has had to deal with this, and which brands of birth control or condoms work the best without causing these yeast infections. Also...since I have never had one, what are the symptoms and how do you treat it? I have heard about putting yogurt on a tampon but is that sanitary? Please help!Help with birth control, condoms, and yeast infections!?
if you have not had one, try not to worry about changing anything in hopes of not getting one. a few things you can do to prevent one is to pee after you have sex, keep clean, don't wear a menstrual pad/tampon for to long, drink cranberry juice, you can stick a soaping finger in your vagina to clean your self in the shower, don't douche (it gets rid of the good bacteria that prevent a infection), yogurt has live acidophiles which also has that good bacteria but should be eaten. do not put it on a tampon, the sugar in it can actually give food to the bad bacteria you don't want growing. symptoms include itching, white, cottage cheese discharge, foul smell. a pill or cream inserted into your vagina is how its treated. good luck.Help with birth control, condoms, and yeast infections!?
I'm on orthotiycycln and have had several yeast infections and bacterial infections. I don't think they birth control was causing it though. the symptoms are very similar so the first time you think you have an infection, you need to go be diagnosed by a Dr. That way you will learn how to recognize the difference in the symptoms.
Yeast infections can be treated with creams from the store, but bacterial infections needs antibodies.
If you are female, you will get several in your lifetime. Its just something us girls gotta deal with. NO FAIR! :)
You must be blonde...
Yeast infections grow in warm moist environments, whether you use condoms or the pill, or yank your own chain. Birth control has nothing to do with it. Actually, you can get an infection from your partner, if he had sex with a girl who had a yeast infection, and that is how it happens.
You cure them with anti-fungal vaginal creme from the drugstore, not with yogurt.
Most yeast infections will go away and stay away on their own, as long as you take good care of yourself.
A yeast infection should itch, burn, and cause a bread smell. You'll know it if you get one.
It is an athelete's foot infection in your vaj, and nothing more.
Don't ever do that to a tampon! That's ridiculous. Tampons already carry a risk of causing toxic shock syndrome (tss) with misuse.
Well it is possible for birth control to change the pH and cause normal flora to grow out of control but highly uncommon. Usually yeast infections result from douching, too much moisture, tight clothing, etc. The lubricant in condoms could contribute to the extra moisture - so make sure you wash and even bathe then dry properly after sexual encounter.
What happens is the yeast Candida, which is resident in the vagina and all over our bodies, becomes disrupted somehow and grow out of control. Too much yeast results in very uncomfortable itching, burning, possible painful urination, etc.
First thing first make sure you know it is not anything else besides a yeast infection lol. Yeast infections have similar symptoms to STD's.
Ways to treat it incl. eating yogurt and drinking buttermilk. This is actually very effective before the yeast infection even really starts. Some people do insert plain yogurt into the vagina but not with no tampon. You may have to get a script from the doc. or even just buy a kit at the local drug store.
Monday, June 6, 2011
Fish for a 165 litre aquarium?
Hi, this is my third fish tank I've set up. It's an AquaOne AR850 aquarium that holds 165 litres(sorry I dont know the gallon conversion), and I have had it running for about 12 weeks and the fish stock so far is:
1 Brislenose plec(fully grown)
5 black phantom tetras
10 neon tetras
2 platys(males)
So, these fish have been going great and im ready to go out and get some more fish. I want to add a group of cories to the tank. I was planning on getting pygmy cories but my LFS dosent stock them anymore so I saw some beautiful corydoras similis there that grow to about 5cm so I've decided to get them.
so, my question is how many should I add if later on I decide to add 2 german rams and maybe more neon tetras or angelfish?
...also my tank has great filtration, weekly 10-20% water changes, pH 6.8, moderately planted with plenty of valls, anubis and cabomba. If anyone suggests other stocking ideas, or different cory species feel free to say them and I'm willing to take out current fish to satisfy the stocking needsFish for a 165 litre aquarium?
Corys sound like a great addition, make sure you get at least 4-6. If you did decide to purchase more fish later on i would get another group of tetras (more neons, like you mentioned, would make a great addition. You could also try a school of lemon tetras if you were interested in more species - they're really fun to watch and a bit more lively than neons). I wouldn't suggest you get the angelfish though, They get fairly big and would probably end up eating your neons unless you moved them to a different tank before they reached a size where they could fit your neons in thier mouth. Your platys are fine just as the two (they don't get to stressed if theres only a couple) if you do get more maybe try 3 females but up to you
good luck with the fishFish for a 165 litre aquarium?
get some black ghosts n angels n ghost shrimp, :)
that's about a 45 gallon tank... 43.5883886 to be exact
if you have platys and tetras you'll want to stick with other peaceful community fish that are around the same size if possible. (Since you already have 18 fish, you wouldn't want to get fish that are any bigger than say, a dalmation molly.) even larger peaceful fish may go after smaller ones. especially if it starts getting crowded.
so keep to around the same size...
also, you'll want to stock one group at a time. (the person above me is right, if you have schooling fish you want to get at least a group of 4 or 5 for them to be happy.
you should only get one group a week, let them acclumate, see how they do, and make sure you are not already stocked to the brink... THEN go and get the next group.
that being said... I'm very partial to neon black tetras, X-ray Belly tetras (OMG those are so cool), Fancy tail guppies will add a burst of color, I also like mollies. some of them are really pretty, but the breed like rabbits. There are neat little balloon bellies, cool looking sailfins, dalmation mollies...
Rummy-nosed tetra are pretty cool... they have bright red noses and black and white tails. interesting and different.
there's also the neon rainbow tetras which are pretty. (take care if you look for these... there are other rainbow fish that get big so you want to avoid those... look specifically for the rainbow neon tetra)
1 gallon = 4 litres
40 gallons = 46 US gallons
Plattys do better in groups of 4-6
You could have a pair of angels but read the link below.
You don't need to remove any fish... but I do think you are
more or less fully stocked now.
1 Brislenose plec(fully grown)
5 black phantom tetras
10 neon tetras
2 platys(males)
So, these fish have been going great and im ready to go out and get some more fish. I want to add a group of cories to the tank. I was planning on getting pygmy cories but my LFS dosent stock them anymore so I saw some beautiful corydoras similis there that grow to about 5cm so I've decided to get them.
so, my question is how many should I add if later on I decide to add 2 german rams and maybe more neon tetras or angelfish?
...also my tank has great filtration, weekly 10-20% water changes, pH 6.8, moderately planted with plenty of valls, anubis and cabomba. If anyone suggests other stocking ideas, or different cory species feel free to say them and I'm willing to take out current fish to satisfy the stocking needsFish for a 165 litre aquarium?
Corys sound like a great addition, make sure you get at least 4-6. If you did decide to purchase more fish later on i would get another group of tetras (more neons, like you mentioned, would make a great addition. You could also try a school of lemon tetras if you were interested in more species - they're really fun to watch and a bit more lively than neons). I wouldn't suggest you get the angelfish though, They get fairly big and would probably end up eating your neons unless you moved them to a different tank before they reached a size where they could fit your neons in thier mouth. Your platys are fine just as the two (they don't get to stressed if theres only a couple) if you do get more maybe try 3 females but up to you
good luck with the fishFish for a 165 litre aquarium?
get some black ghosts n angels n ghost shrimp, :)
that's about a 45 gallon tank... 43.5883886 to be exact
if you have platys and tetras you'll want to stick with other peaceful community fish that are around the same size if possible. (Since you already have 18 fish, you wouldn't want to get fish that are any bigger than say, a dalmation molly.) even larger peaceful fish may go after smaller ones. especially if it starts getting crowded.
so keep to around the same size...
also, you'll want to stock one group at a time. (the person above me is right, if you have schooling fish you want to get at least a group of 4 or 5 for them to be happy.
you should only get one group a week, let them acclumate, see how they do, and make sure you are not already stocked to the brink... THEN go and get the next group.
that being said... I'm very partial to neon black tetras, X-ray Belly tetras (OMG those are so cool), Fancy tail guppies will add a burst of color, I also like mollies. some of them are really pretty, but the breed like rabbits. There are neat little balloon bellies, cool looking sailfins, dalmation mollies...
Rummy-nosed tetra are pretty cool... they have bright red noses and black and white tails. interesting and different.
there's also the neon rainbow tetras which are pretty. (take care if you look for these... there are other rainbow fish that get big so you want to avoid those... look specifically for the rainbow neon tetra)
1 gallon = 4 litres
40 gallons = 46 US gallons
Plattys do better in groups of 4-6
You could have a pair of angels but read the link below.
You don't need to remove any fish... but I do think you are
more or less fully stocked now.
How can I kill the mosquitos around my house, and kill their larve that are alive right now?
I had a drippy faucet outside, and it became a mosquito breeding ground. I will get rid of anymore stagnate water around my house, but I want to kill their larve.
The depressions from the drippy faucet and the heavy rain is keeping them alive. Can I add some bleach or chlorine to kill them? What if I just change the Ph of the water they are living in? What is an unacceptable Ph range for them?How can I kill the mosquitos around my house, and kill their larve that are alive right now?
At most hardware stores they have Mosquito Dunk. It is a disc that can be put into standing water and will kill the larvae. It is not harmful to humans or animals. I've used it and it works. Hope it helps your mosquito problem.How can I kill the mosquitos around my house, and kill their larve that are alive right now?
fill little baggies of plain water up right outside ur front door anbout 9 of them and watch them dissapear. home remedy my dad heard it from a friend and tried it and it WORKS!!!!!
The depressions from the drippy faucet and the heavy rain is keeping them alive. Can I add some bleach or chlorine to kill them? What if I just change the Ph of the water they are living in? What is an unacceptable Ph range for them?How can I kill the mosquitos around my house, and kill their larve that are alive right now?
At most hardware stores they have Mosquito Dunk. It is a disc that can be put into standing water and will kill the larvae. It is not harmful to humans or animals. I've used it and it works. Hope it helps your mosquito problem.How can I kill the mosquitos around my house, and kill their larve that are alive right now?
fill little baggies of plain water up right outside ur front door anbout 9 of them and watch them dissapear. home remedy my dad heard it from a friend and tried it and it WORKS!!!!!
When do you know for sure when a tank is cycled?
I need to know when it is safe for me to put some more expensive fish ino my tank. It is a 40 gal saltwater tank that has 6 damsels in it to help cycle it. I used fake plants, but live sand and some gravel.
Hydrometer read 1.023
PH 7.8
Alkalinity ideal
Nitrate .5 (caution)
Nitrate below 20 (OK)
Also how do you change the pH level if it were too high? Or any of the other readings for that matter. This is my first tank and I really don't want to kill any fish, expecially since they cost so much once you really get some nice ones. We plan on getting a pair of clown fish as soon as the tank is stable. What else would go well with clown fish and damsels? What is the best kind if cleaner fish to put in there to keep the tank clean? I like how the cleaner shrimp looks, but do they clean the tank or just the fish?When do you know for sure when a tank is cycled?
I go with Magicman on the cycling. Your tank's looking good since your ammonia is already at zero, but you want to get rid of the nitrite (I think this is what you meant was the .5). Once you get this and it stays for a week, you can move on to other fish.
If you're only keeping fish, your salinity is fine. If you want to get invertebrates, you need to bump it up just a little - 1.024 - 1.026. This is closer to seawater.
The pH will rarely go too high for salt. most folks have trouble getting it high enough! For instance, yours right now is 7.8. That's LOW for saltwater. It should be above 8, preferably around 8.3-8.4. I have that problem, too. Only thing that's worked for me is kalkwasser. Since you don't have a big tank, you don't need to get a reactor for this. Get a clean soda bottle and put some tap water in. Add about a teaspoon of Kalkwasser powder (be careful with this, it's caustic) to the water, cap, and mix. It will be very cloudy, but will settle. I use an eyedropper/ baby medicine dropper to add a dropperful at a time. It's going to take a bit to get your tank's pH up to where it should be, though. And you don't want to adjust the pH too quickly. Once it's too hard to get any kalk out of the bottle, just add more water. As long as there's powder in the bottom, it's dissolving in the tapwater. Add more powder as needed, and don't mix more than a 16oz bottle at a time.
Your pH may not be where it should if you used gravel as in ';aquarium gravel'; - the stuff put in freshwater tanks. It's better to use the small shell substrate or crushed coral. These will help with the pH by dissolving when the pH gets low.
Are you planning to keep the damsels you cycled with? If so, you may have quite a few problems down the road when you want to add new fish. Damsels, other than chromis, are aggressive. They are used to having the tank to themselves and have established a ';pecking order'; and territories. Any new fish will become the ';intruder'; and harrassed, often to the point of being killed. Moreso, since it will be six against the new fish. Your best bet would be to exchange the damsels for other fish, if possible.
Without knowing the types of damsels you have, your tank may be close to stocking capacity already. Because of aggression and territoriality in marine fish, plus a general intolerance of changes in water quality, the stocking should be much lower than it is for freshwater aquaria. To cut down on aggression, you should avoid any fish within the same family, or having similar color or body shape as the fish you already have.
Some fish I'd suggest if you want to go with the clowns, rather than the damsels are green chromis (these and damsels are both in the same family, but generally tolerant of each other), longnose hawkfish, any of the peaceful cardinalfish, firefish, clown gobies, canary blenny, purple pseudochromis (dottyback), a dwarf angel, or, a yellow tang (be careful of disease with these - they're nice fish but are sometimes marine ich magnets) - use a quarantine tank for at least 3 weeks before adding a new fish to your main tank. It will save you a lot of grief from having a new fish wipe out everything already in your tank. I'll post a website where you can find photos and info on these and others.
The cleaner shrimp will clean the fish, but a little of the tank as well - they'll dig things out of the rocks and gravel with their claws that the fish can't reach. But to get more cleaning power, you'll want to get some other inverts. Snails are a good cleaner - nassarius will burrow into the gravel and get food buried deep, Astrea, Nerite, Turbo, and other will clean the surfaces (but will need the pH corrected before you add them). I usually keep an emerald crab or two in my tanks, plus several blue-leg and scarlet hermit crabs. I also like peppermint shrimp - not as colorful as some others, but when I buy live rock, I can count on them to destroy any nuisance anemones (Aiptaisia). In a 40 gallon, you could probably also beep a brittle star, but don't add until your tanks been cycled for about 6 months.
Thanks for the reference MM!
- CWhen do you know for sure when a tank is cycled?
Be careful with clown fish. Only have one species - for example only tomato clowns or nemos... they tend to fight and attack each other otherwise.
Put lots and lots of snails and snail crabs for cleaning. And urchins.
Diamond goby http://www.techdef.org/fishpages/Images/ will clean your sand and they seem to have great personality as far as fishes go.
Blue tangs
http://www.pnwwebdesign.com/graphics/Tub are beautiful but can be a bit aggressive.
Cardinal fish
http://www.onchat.com/users/M002/malesur
is a very peaceful and graceful fish. Lovely to look at.
Same goes for psychedelic fish.
http://www.scubagrl.net/Psychedelic%20Fi and butterfly fish
http://www.harphampix.com/v2/files/0476/
Ask people at the store where you're buying fish or better yet, go to this website. They supply fish, and everything connected to it with valuable advice.
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/?ref=4184%26amp;
As far as the cycling of the tank and pH, you need to talk to an expert, and the above site might help you find the answers you're looking for.
Usually it takes a week or so for a freshwater tank to cycle. I'm not really sure about saltwater. You can ask at the shop where yu purchased your set-up and your fish. Wen you go to purchase the clown fish ask the person working there. i have found that actual pet stores know much more about fish than stores like walmart. Petsmart %26amp; petco are both very good with info and advice. Good Luck!
I tank is completely cycled when after several days to a week of no water changes both ammonia and nitrites read 0 and you know there is a source of ammonia in the tank.
As far as altering pH in a salt tank I would refer you to SeaChems line of marine products. They seem to do a very good job of handling the situation.
I haven't kept a marine tank in some years so I'll refer you to someone else as far as fish compatability is concerned. Hopefully someone like Copperhead, 8 in the corner or DanielleZ will pick that up for you.
MM
Hydrometer read 1.023
PH 7.8
Alkalinity ideal
Nitrate .5 (caution)
Nitrate below 20 (OK)
Also how do you change the pH level if it were too high? Or any of the other readings for that matter. This is my first tank and I really don't want to kill any fish, expecially since they cost so much once you really get some nice ones. We plan on getting a pair of clown fish as soon as the tank is stable. What else would go well with clown fish and damsels? What is the best kind if cleaner fish to put in there to keep the tank clean? I like how the cleaner shrimp looks, but do they clean the tank or just the fish?When do you know for sure when a tank is cycled?
I go with Magicman on the cycling. Your tank's looking good since your ammonia is already at zero, but you want to get rid of the nitrite (I think this is what you meant was the .5). Once you get this and it stays for a week, you can move on to other fish.
If you're only keeping fish, your salinity is fine. If you want to get invertebrates, you need to bump it up just a little - 1.024 - 1.026. This is closer to seawater.
The pH will rarely go too high for salt. most folks have trouble getting it high enough! For instance, yours right now is 7.8. That's LOW for saltwater. It should be above 8, preferably around 8.3-8.4. I have that problem, too. Only thing that's worked for me is kalkwasser. Since you don't have a big tank, you don't need to get a reactor for this. Get a clean soda bottle and put some tap water in. Add about a teaspoon of Kalkwasser powder (be careful with this, it's caustic) to the water, cap, and mix. It will be very cloudy, but will settle. I use an eyedropper/ baby medicine dropper to add a dropperful at a time. It's going to take a bit to get your tank's pH up to where it should be, though. And you don't want to adjust the pH too quickly. Once it's too hard to get any kalk out of the bottle, just add more water. As long as there's powder in the bottom, it's dissolving in the tapwater. Add more powder as needed, and don't mix more than a 16oz bottle at a time.
Your pH may not be where it should if you used gravel as in ';aquarium gravel'; - the stuff put in freshwater tanks. It's better to use the small shell substrate or crushed coral. These will help with the pH by dissolving when the pH gets low.
Are you planning to keep the damsels you cycled with? If so, you may have quite a few problems down the road when you want to add new fish. Damsels, other than chromis, are aggressive. They are used to having the tank to themselves and have established a ';pecking order'; and territories. Any new fish will become the ';intruder'; and harrassed, often to the point of being killed. Moreso, since it will be six against the new fish. Your best bet would be to exchange the damsels for other fish, if possible.
Without knowing the types of damsels you have, your tank may be close to stocking capacity already. Because of aggression and territoriality in marine fish, plus a general intolerance of changes in water quality, the stocking should be much lower than it is for freshwater aquaria. To cut down on aggression, you should avoid any fish within the same family, or having similar color or body shape as the fish you already have.
Some fish I'd suggest if you want to go with the clowns, rather than the damsels are green chromis (these and damsels are both in the same family, but generally tolerant of each other), longnose hawkfish, any of the peaceful cardinalfish, firefish, clown gobies, canary blenny, purple pseudochromis (dottyback), a dwarf angel, or, a yellow tang (be careful of disease with these - they're nice fish but are sometimes marine ich magnets) - use a quarantine tank for at least 3 weeks before adding a new fish to your main tank. It will save you a lot of grief from having a new fish wipe out everything already in your tank. I'll post a website where you can find photos and info on these and others.
The cleaner shrimp will clean the fish, but a little of the tank as well - they'll dig things out of the rocks and gravel with their claws that the fish can't reach. But to get more cleaning power, you'll want to get some other inverts. Snails are a good cleaner - nassarius will burrow into the gravel and get food buried deep, Astrea, Nerite, Turbo, and other will clean the surfaces (but will need the pH corrected before you add them). I usually keep an emerald crab or two in my tanks, plus several blue-leg and scarlet hermit crabs. I also like peppermint shrimp - not as colorful as some others, but when I buy live rock, I can count on them to destroy any nuisance anemones (Aiptaisia). In a 40 gallon, you could probably also beep a brittle star, but don't add until your tanks been cycled for about 6 months.
Thanks for the reference MM!
- CWhen do you know for sure when a tank is cycled?
Be careful with clown fish. Only have one species - for example only tomato clowns or nemos... they tend to fight and attack each other otherwise.
Put lots and lots of snails and snail crabs for cleaning. And urchins.
Diamond goby http://www.techdef.org/fishpages/Images/ will clean your sand and they seem to have great personality as far as fishes go.
Blue tangs
http://www.pnwwebdesign.com/graphics/Tub are beautiful but can be a bit aggressive.
Cardinal fish
http://www.onchat.com/users/M002/malesur
is a very peaceful and graceful fish. Lovely to look at.
Same goes for psychedelic fish.
http://www.scubagrl.net/Psychedelic%20Fi and butterfly fish
http://www.harphampix.com/v2/files/0476/
Ask people at the store where you're buying fish or better yet, go to this website. They supply fish, and everything connected to it with valuable advice.
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/?ref=4184%26amp;
As far as the cycling of the tank and pH, you need to talk to an expert, and the above site might help you find the answers you're looking for.
Usually it takes a week or so for a freshwater tank to cycle. I'm not really sure about saltwater. You can ask at the shop where yu purchased your set-up and your fish. Wen you go to purchase the clown fish ask the person working there. i have found that actual pet stores know much more about fish than stores like walmart. Petsmart %26amp; petco are both very good with info and advice. Good Luck!
I tank is completely cycled when after several days to a week of no water changes both ammonia and nitrites read 0 and you know there is a source of ammonia in the tank.
As far as altering pH in a salt tank I would refer you to SeaChems line of marine products. They seem to do a very good job of handling the situation.
I haven't kept a marine tank in some years so I'll refer you to someone else as far as fish compatability is concerned. Hopefully someone like Copperhead, 8 in the corner or DanielleZ will pick that up for you.
MM
How can I lower the acidity in my homemade spaghetti sauce?
I use tomato puree/sauce - the acidity of the tomatoes is a little too much for some of my friends.
I'm already aware of the ';add sugar'; suggestion but sugar is acidic itself and just balances the taste. Is there a different ingredient I can use to actually change the pH level and ward off sour stomach? Flour? Baking Soda?
Thanks in advance for all your answers!How can I lower the acidity in my homemade spaghetti sauce?
I found a site about food acidity and it had some information pertaining to tomatoes that might be helpful. It suggest that using fresh tomatoes rather than canned would be helpful since they are generally less acidic and that the more ripe the tomato the less acidic it is. Heres the link to the page:
http://www.whfoods.com/genpage.php?tname
Good luck and happy cooking.How can I lower the acidity in my homemade spaghetti sauce?
I personally haven't done this but I have heard of it. Put a carrot in the sauce during the cooking process.
Tray adding a tablespoon of milk for every 2.5 cups of puree. This cuts the acidity and adds a ';smoothness'; to the sauce.
For canning or preserving your homemade spaghetti sauce, a lower ph is desirable to avoid mold growth. Meat when added , will increase the pH (lower the acidity). Any seafood product also will do the same but you can add it while you are already cooking
Have you tried zucchini or potato halved and sliced about 2mm thick? Might work
Throw in some mushrooms. They cut the acidity.
Don't use the puree. Change your recipe.
Have you tried some of the many sauces you buy in jars at the supermarket? They have all different types and most do not have that strong flavor that hurts so many tummies and give indigestion.
I know what your friends are talking about, I can hardly eat any homemade sauces or chili. And some of the spices really hurt such as oregano. Seems like I can feel and/or taste oregano for several days. The same with red pepper.
By the way, how about clam sauce. I'm sure your company would find this delicious. You can find this in jars too if you don't want to make it from scratch.
I'm not sure how long you are cooking your sauce for but you could try cooking it for a lesser amount of time. The longer you cook it, the more acidic it will become because the liquid evaporates. 30 minutes is good, maximum 45 minutes.
Also, you're right. Sugar doesn't prevent the acidity it just masks the taste of it. I don't know of any ingredient you can add to change the PH other than more liquid i.e. water.
Try milk, or cream
A pinch of baking soda should do However cooked tomato sauce is high in acid.create a circle text different myspace
I'm already aware of the ';add sugar'; suggestion but sugar is acidic itself and just balances the taste. Is there a different ingredient I can use to actually change the pH level and ward off sour stomach? Flour? Baking Soda?
Thanks in advance for all your answers!How can I lower the acidity in my homemade spaghetti sauce?
I found a site about food acidity and it had some information pertaining to tomatoes that might be helpful. It suggest that using fresh tomatoes rather than canned would be helpful since they are generally less acidic and that the more ripe the tomato the less acidic it is. Heres the link to the page:
http://www.whfoods.com/genpage.php?tname
Good luck and happy cooking.How can I lower the acidity in my homemade spaghetti sauce?
I personally haven't done this but I have heard of it. Put a carrot in the sauce during the cooking process.
Tray adding a tablespoon of milk for every 2.5 cups of puree. This cuts the acidity and adds a ';smoothness'; to the sauce.
For canning or preserving your homemade spaghetti sauce, a lower ph is desirable to avoid mold growth. Meat when added , will increase the pH (lower the acidity). Any seafood product also will do the same but you can add it while you are already cooking
Have you tried zucchini or potato halved and sliced about 2mm thick? Might work
Throw in some mushrooms. They cut the acidity.
Don't use the puree. Change your recipe.
Have you tried some of the many sauces you buy in jars at the supermarket? They have all different types and most do not have that strong flavor that hurts so many tummies and give indigestion.
I know what your friends are talking about, I can hardly eat any homemade sauces or chili. And some of the spices really hurt such as oregano. Seems like I can feel and/or taste oregano for several days. The same with red pepper.
By the way, how about clam sauce. I'm sure your company would find this delicious. You can find this in jars too if you don't want to make it from scratch.
I'm not sure how long you are cooking your sauce for but you could try cooking it for a lesser amount of time. The longer you cook it, the more acidic it will become because the liquid evaporates. 30 minutes is good, maximum 45 minutes.
Also, you're right. Sugar doesn't prevent the acidity it just masks the taste of it. I don't know of any ingredient you can add to change the PH other than more liquid i.e. water.
Try milk, or cream
A pinch of baking soda should do However cooked tomato sauce is high in acid.
My plants aren't doing well?
Freshwater, 65 gallon, 2.5 years old.
My substrate was well formulated in the beginning for plants. I have a bio Eheim filter of 5 levels, greater than that of the aquarium. Nitrates are always a bit high even with weekly 30% changes. PH at around 6 and stable. GH much lower but stable.
I have a back drop to my aquarium which has grown a fine (beautiful) grass, moss algae but also likes to grown on plants.
Have noticed that algae dominates plants. Most older plants are dying off.
Liquid CO2 lowers the PH in my aquarium so I do not use it every day.
I have replaced plants which should all be tollerable to 28-30% temps F.
I have discus fish as main fish.
Time for a complete overhaul? How long does original substrate last to maintain healthy plants?
suggestions?
ThanksMy plants aren't doing well?
You need quick growing plants that will use the nutrients quicker than the algae.
My substrate was well formulated in the beginning for plants. I have a bio Eheim filter of 5 levels, greater than that of the aquarium. Nitrates are always a bit high even with weekly 30% changes. PH at around 6 and stable. GH much lower but stable.
I have a back drop to my aquarium which has grown a fine (beautiful) grass, moss algae but also likes to grown on plants.
Have noticed that algae dominates plants. Most older plants are dying off.
Liquid CO2 lowers the PH in my aquarium so I do not use it every day.
I have replaced plants which should all be tollerable to 28-30% temps F.
I have discus fish as main fish.
Time for a complete overhaul? How long does original substrate last to maintain healthy plants?
suggestions?
ThanksMy plants aren't doing well?
You need quick growing plants that will use the nutrients quicker than the algae.
Are you kidding me? 2nd try... No one can answer? Plants, Aquarium, Freshwater?
Come on! 2 years ago I would have had at least 2 good answers. HELP! PLEASE!
Freshwater, 65 gallon, 2.5 years old.
My substrate was well formulated in the beginning for plants. I have a bio Eheim filter of 5 levels, greater than that of the aquarium. Nitrates are always a bit high even with weekly 30% changes. PH at around 6 and stable. GH much lower but stable.
I have a back drop to my aquarium which has grown a fine (beautiful) grass, moss algae but also likes to grown on plants.
Have noticed that algae dominates plants. Most older plants are dying off.
Liquid CO2 lowers the PH in my aquarium so I do not use it every day.
I have replaced plants which should all be tollerable to 28-30% temps F.
I have discus fish as main fish.
Time for a complete overhaul? How long does original substrate last to maintain healthy plants?
suggestions?
ThanksAre you kidding me? 2nd try... No one can answer? Plants, Aquarium, Freshwater?
Complete overhaul is a bit too much hassle and stressful for Discuss. Take a look at your bulbs. Luminescent bulbs do loose their brightness before complete burn out. Try replacing? BTW, why do you replace so much water weekly? Try reducing to 15% weekly. Let bacteria and plants take care of nitrates/nitritesAre you kidding me? 2nd try... No one can answer? Plants, Aquarium, Freshwater?
It lasts about two weeks but keep an eye on it.
biggest thing you are not saying is the kind and wattage of the lights you are using...
the Original substrate last years and years as long as it is not to compact....
i don't recommend an overhaul untill you give more info
Yes, I reccomend a complete overhaul.
Plants need a fine substrate that does not compact to the point ... More importantly, it serves long term as a chemical attachment point for trace elements in the substrate.
Also. If you dont want the hassle of a real plant. I suggest getting a fake one if you want.
I agree with the others, we need the details about your lighting to answer your question.
Freshwater, 65 gallon, 2.5 years old.
My substrate was well formulated in the beginning for plants. I have a bio Eheim filter of 5 levels, greater than that of the aquarium. Nitrates are always a bit high even with weekly 30% changes. PH at around 6 and stable. GH much lower but stable.
I have a back drop to my aquarium which has grown a fine (beautiful) grass, moss algae but also likes to grown on plants.
Have noticed that algae dominates plants. Most older plants are dying off.
Liquid CO2 lowers the PH in my aquarium so I do not use it every day.
I have replaced plants which should all be tollerable to 28-30% temps F.
I have discus fish as main fish.
Time for a complete overhaul? How long does original substrate last to maintain healthy plants?
suggestions?
ThanksAre you kidding me? 2nd try... No one can answer? Plants, Aquarium, Freshwater?
Complete overhaul is a bit too much hassle and stressful for Discuss. Take a look at your bulbs. Luminescent bulbs do loose their brightness before complete burn out. Try replacing? BTW, why do you replace so much water weekly? Try reducing to 15% weekly. Let bacteria and plants take care of nitrates/nitritesAre you kidding me? 2nd try... No one can answer? Plants, Aquarium, Freshwater?
It lasts about two weeks but keep an eye on it.
biggest thing you are not saying is the kind and wattage of the lights you are using...
the Original substrate last years and years as long as it is not to compact....
i don't recommend an overhaul untill you give more info
Yes, I reccomend a complete overhaul.
Plants need a fine substrate that does not compact to the point ... More importantly, it serves long term as a chemical attachment point for trace elements in the substrate.
Also. If you dont want the hassle of a real plant. I suggest getting a fake one if you want.
I agree with the others, we need the details about your lighting to answer your question.
How big of a tank should I have for 2 fancy goldfish and a pleco?
Hi! I have a ryukin (about 4 inches long), a black moor (3 inches) and a pleco (3 inches). Right now, they're in a 10 gal. tank, but relax, this is temporary.
Since goldfish are piggies, the tank size is not enough right now to sustain their waste and is unstable (I'm having a lot of problems keeping the pH levels balanced and the water keeps getting cloudy. I've tried water changes, pH balancers/regulators, and water clearers like AccuClear--it keeps clouding up.). A 10 gal. filter is in the tank right now--if I got a stronger filter, would I still have these problems??
I've heard that for goldfish, there should be 20 gal. for the first one and 10 gal. for each additional goldfish. I was thinking about getting a 29 gal, but I didn't know if this would have enough room for the pleco too. It should be enough, shouldn't it?
I don't want to have to spend $100 on this really, so if anyone knows where I can find reasonably priced fish tanks, let me know. I'm kind of hoping I can find a bigger tank that will still sort of fit on the 10 gal. metal stand.
Anyways, thanks everyone--let me know what you think.How big of a tank should I have for 2 fancy goldfish and a pleco?
Locally owned fish stores are a really good idea. I bought a 20gal fish tank for 40$. Ask if they have any used tanks that they will sell you for cheap. I have a pleco, a black moore, and a calico fantail in a 20 gal. Wal-mart has whisper filters for about 20$ and they work really well. My water never gets cloudy. I replace a gallon of water a week. So good luck with your fish! I'm also glad that you decided to invest in a bigger tank. The fish I have, I have had for 5 years and I love watching them.How big of a tank should I have for 2 fancy goldfish and a pleco?
20 should be good for a while but remember goldfish can get up to 15 inches long
if u dont want to spend alot of money i would suggest getting a 20 gal then get a bigger one when thay out grow it (should be about a year or 2 before they do) and sell the 20 gal on craigslist or something so it wont be like ur spending a fortune
http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?
The 29 gallon tank should be enough if you dont add any other fish although the fancy tails do like to have alot of room. Mine are in a 55 gallon tank but i have plenty of other fish with them.I guess it all depends on how much room you want them to have
1 gallon of water for every 1 inch of fish length, is a good rule of thumb. Remember to figure this on the size they will be in a year or two.
really if you are going to spend all that money on tanks, and if you like fish keeping you should go to walmart and buy a aquatech 55 gallon starter kit it will have everything you need to start your tank up. but they are 170$. so unless you want to spend it and you dont that is a good choice. Gold fish need atleast 20 gallons for one fish because they are so dirty so a 55 gallon would be sufficent and you can also put the plco in there.
Getting a stronger filter would help, but the nitrates and solid waste would still be present in the tank, and it wouldn't solve all of your problems. Also, better filters can cost a lot of money, depending on the type, and i would see what kind of tank you are planning to get next before getting another filter. this way you don't risk spending more money.
I would suggest a 30 gallon bare minimum for these two goldfish and your pleco, but you wouldn't be able to add any more fish to it. Fancy goldfish don't grow near as large as their comet counterparts---they only get about 6 inches--but they are still very hefty fish and will make enough waste to fill the space. You may eventually have to trade your pleco when he gets too large, these fish produce massive aounts of waste when they get larger, and they grow ugly. The rubberlip pleco is a good alternative to the regular one, since they only top out at about 6 inches.
A good place to get a better deal on tanks are privately owned fish stores, and online places like amazon and craigs list. Don't go to petsmart or petco, their tanks are outrageously priced. Look in the classifieds online, there may be someone in your area with a tank and stand for sale. $100 is really pretty low for a tank, just so you know---these can be expensive, and you may have to spend this much on it. But you won't be getting cheated.
To put it honestly, putting a bigger tank on an undersized stand is a bad idea. a 30 gallon tank with water, rocks, and decor, would weigh over 300 pounds. The weight wouldnt be evenly distributed, and you risk your tank breaking or falling over. Trust me, it's way better to get the right sized stand and not have to worry.
Good luck
Since goldfish are piggies, the tank size is not enough right now to sustain their waste and is unstable (I'm having a lot of problems keeping the pH levels balanced and the water keeps getting cloudy. I've tried water changes, pH balancers/regulators, and water clearers like AccuClear--it keeps clouding up.). A 10 gal. filter is in the tank right now--if I got a stronger filter, would I still have these problems??
I've heard that for goldfish, there should be 20 gal. for the first one and 10 gal. for each additional goldfish. I was thinking about getting a 29 gal, but I didn't know if this would have enough room for the pleco too. It should be enough, shouldn't it?
I don't want to have to spend $100 on this really, so if anyone knows where I can find reasonably priced fish tanks, let me know. I'm kind of hoping I can find a bigger tank that will still sort of fit on the 10 gal. metal stand.
Anyways, thanks everyone--let me know what you think.How big of a tank should I have for 2 fancy goldfish and a pleco?
Locally owned fish stores are a really good idea. I bought a 20gal fish tank for 40$. Ask if they have any used tanks that they will sell you for cheap. I have a pleco, a black moore, and a calico fantail in a 20 gal. Wal-mart has whisper filters for about 20$ and they work really well. My water never gets cloudy. I replace a gallon of water a week. So good luck with your fish! I'm also glad that you decided to invest in a bigger tank. The fish I have, I have had for 5 years and I love watching them.How big of a tank should I have for 2 fancy goldfish and a pleco?
20 should be good for a while but remember goldfish can get up to 15 inches long
if u dont want to spend alot of money i would suggest getting a 20 gal then get a bigger one when thay out grow it (should be about a year or 2 before they do) and sell the 20 gal on craigslist or something so it wont be like ur spending a fortune
http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?
The 29 gallon tank should be enough if you dont add any other fish although the fancy tails do like to have alot of room. Mine are in a 55 gallon tank but i have plenty of other fish with them.I guess it all depends on how much room you want them to have
1 gallon of water for every 1 inch of fish length, is a good rule of thumb. Remember to figure this on the size they will be in a year or two.
really if you are going to spend all that money on tanks, and if you like fish keeping you should go to walmart and buy a aquatech 55 gallon starter kit it will have everything you need to start your tank up. but they are 170$. so unless you want to spend it and you dont that is a good choice. Gold fish need atleast 20 gallons for one fish because they are so dirty so a 55 gallon would be sufficent and you can also put the plco in there.
Getting a stronger filter would help, but the nitrates and solid waste would still be present in the tank, and it wouldn't solve all of your problems. Also, better filters can cost a lot of money, depending on the type, and i would see what kind of tank you are planning to get next before getting another filter. this way you don't risk spending more money.
I would suggest a 30 gallon bare minimum for these two goldfish and your pleco, but you wouldn't be able to add any more fish to it. Fancy goldfish don't grow near as large as their comet counterparts---they only get about 6 inches--but they are still very hefty fish and will make enough waste to fill the space. You may eventually have to trade your pleco when he gets too large, these fish produce massive aounts of waste when they get larger, and they grow ugly. The rubberlip pleco is a good alternative to the regular one, since they only top out at about 6 inches.
A good place to get a better deal on tanks are privately owned fish stores, and online places like amazon and craigs list. Don't go to petsmart or petco, their tanks are outrageously priced. Look in the classifieds online, there may be someone in your area with a tank and stand for sale. $100 is really pretty low for a tank, just so you know---these can be expensive, and you may have to spend this much on it. But you won't be getting cheated.
To put it honestly, putting a bigger tank on an undersized stand is a bad idea. a 30 gallon tank with water, rocks, and decor, would weigh over 300 pounds. The weight wouldnt be evenly distributed, and you risk your tank breaking or falling over. Trust me, it's way better to get the right sized stand and not have to worry.
Good luck
If I am doing a titration, how can I find the range of pH's in the equivalence point?
When you titrates a acid against a base, or vice versa, the pH changes drastically from acidic to basic or basic to acidic. How can I plot a rough titration curve without doing the experiment when I know the strength of the acid, base and the salt they form (pKa or Ka or pKb or Kb) and their concentration (moldm^-3)? I assume I find it by finding the pH of the acidic and basic solutions and starting there? In addition, will a vertical line equivalence point with a good range of pH be found when titrating a weak acid from a burette of strong acid, or should I switch their positions around in the experiment?If I am doing a titration, how can I find the range of pH's in the equivalence point?
generally titrations are made by using single indicator.
But if you are new to titrations
use two or more different set ups and use different indicators.
First avoid indicator with large pH range.
When you will master few of such experiments i'm sure you will not get problems.
generally titrations are made by using single indicator.
But if you are new to titrations
use two or more different set ups and use different indicators.
First avoid indicator with large pH range.
When you will master few of such experiments i'm sure you will not get problems.
3ft tank 1 week 2 days old 126L 33 Gallons?
I just purchased 2 Oscars. One 1 inch Tiger Oscar and another Red Albino Oscar who is fatter and slightly larger. I had done exactly what the pet shop told me Water Ager in when i fill the tank up let it filter for one week i also put in a Vita Pet pH neutraliser block and a 10cm long bubble bar. I have cichlid pellets and blood worms. The pH level is currwntly on 7.4 i would like it to go down how would i go about doing so i have a Vita Pet pH test kit that came with alkalinity down and acidity up and acidity up and alkaline down podwer both say to ad 0.5 units per 20L no idea what this means though. I was also wondering about the water it is slightly cloudy just looking from one side of the tank to the other long ways through the glass. Any help on what to do next as far as water changes pH levels go. Also shloud i buy a ammonia nitrate test kit. There are curently no lights and 2 plastic plants and 2 little ornaments and some gravel covering the bottom.3ft tank 1 week 2 days old 126L 33 Gallons?
First of all, I wouldn't mess with the pH. I've kept a lot of fish for a while now with that same pH reading of 7.4 with no problems. If you start mixing in chemicals, unless you really know what you're doing, you can easily do more harm than good to your entire system. I found that out the hard way, so you can trust me on that.
As one answerer has already said, your biggest problem will eventually be that your tank is too small to properly house oscars. I strongly encourage you to return them both to the fish store on some store credit. Then in a few more days after your tank's had time to completely cycle, think about getting some fish that stay smaller and aren't too aggressive.
Good luck. :)
EDIT: Yes, 25% water changes every four days should do you fine. Great about moving those fish into bigger tanks, that should help your situation a lot. Sounds like you're doing to be just fine.3ft tank 1 week 2 days old 126L 33 Gallons?
I hate to tell you this but unless you plan on upgrading your tank to at least 120, you're not going to be able to keep 2 oscars let alone 1 in a 33 Gallon aquarium. Also 9 days is not enough for the nitrogen cylce to fully complete. The cloudy water is due to your tank not being fully cycled and is the result of the bacterial bloom (beneficial) associated with a new tank. As oscars are fairly hardy, they shouldn't show too much of an ill effect to the cycling process. Personally I would either return both Oscars or get a larger tank for them,
Hope this helps.
Ph of 7.4? Why do you think that's a problem? I have two oscars, both of which have been thriving in a ph of exactly that! Do not play with ph's. That constant up and down of you trying to right it will stress the fish! If you do it, you certainly won't have any fish to worry about! LOL.
I'm glad you're upgrading your oscars to a bigger home, otherwise there would be no way to keep them. And as for the cycle thing... I WISH a cycle only took 9 days!! I have a 75 here that has just finished, took me 2 months! And that was without fish and no water changes! I used pure ammonia.
After all the fish I have lost in the past being ignorant to have a cycled tank first.(All being oscars.) I have learned to appreciate their bio-load and that those fish can only really be housed in completely cycled tanks!
I'm afraid that they might not walk away from an uncycled tank in one piece! You might end up with a nasty case of Hole in the Head, which Oscars, sadly enough are prone to!
Of the four oscars I introduced stupidly to an uncycled tank, on top of doing water changes... only one survived. Even then, she has a hole in the head scar. As a reminder.
I learned an IMPORTANT lesson: Oscars NEED big tanks, BIG CYCLED tanks! As in the smallest you can house ONE oscar in is a 55 gal!
Good luck to you, I think I would bring all back except one, Buy a water test kit and test the water daily along with big water changes. Only put in the other fish when you have an established aquarium.best c ide hair pictures
First of all, I wouldn't mess with the pH. I've kept a lot of fish for a while now with that same pH reading of 7.4 with no problems. If you start mixing in chemicals, unless you really know what you're doing, you can easily do more harm than good to your entire system. I found that out the hard way, so you can trust me on that.
As one answerer has already said, your biggest problem will eventually be that your tank is too small to properly house oscars. I strongly encourage you to return them both to the fish store on some store credit. Then in a few more days after your tank's had time to completely cycle, think about getting some fish that stay smaller and aren't too aggressive.
Good luck. :)
EDIT: Yes, 25% water changes every four days should do you fine. Great about moving those fish into bigger tanks, that should help your situation a lot. Sounds like you're doing to be just fine.3ft tank 1 week 2 days old 126L 33 Gallons?
I hate to tell you this but unless you plan on upgrading your tank to at least 120, you're not going to be able to keep 2 oscars let alone 1 in a 33 Gallon aquarium. Also 9 days is not enough for the nitrogen cylce to fully complete. The cloudy water is due to your tank not being fully cycled and is the result of the bacterial bloom (beneficial) associated with a new tank. As oscars are fairly hardy, they shouldn't show too much of an ill effect to the cycling process. Personally I would either return both Oscars or get a larger tank for them,
Hope this helps.
Ph of 7.4? Why do you think that's a problem? I have two oscars, both of which have been thriving in a ph of exactly that! Do not play with ph's. That constant up and down of you trying to right it will stress the fish! If you do it, you certainly won't have any fish to worry about! LOL.
I'm glad you're upgrading your oscars to a bigger home, otherwise there would be no way to keep them. And as for the cycle thing... I WISH a cycle only took 9 days!! I have a 75 here that has just finished, took me 2 months! And that was without fish and no water changes! I used pure ammonia.
After all the fish I have lost in the past being ignorant to have a cycled tank first.(All being oscars.) I have learned to appreciate their bio-load and that those fish can only really be housed in completely cycled tanks!
I'm afraid that they might not walk away from an uncycled tank in one piece! You might end up with a nasty case of Hole in the Head, which Oscars, sadly enough are prone to!
Of the four oscars I introduced stupidly to an uncycled tank, on top of doing water changes... only one survived. Even then, she has a hole in the head scar. As a reminder.
I learned an IMPORTANT lesson: Oscars NEED big tanks, BIG CYCLED tanks! As in the smallest you can house ONE oscar in is a 55 gal!
Good luck to you, I think I would bring all back except one, Buy a water test kit and test the water daily along with big water changes. Only put in the other fish when you have an established aquarium.
How do you calculate pH and Ka values with just concentration?
I have 50ml NaOH at 0.1mol and 50ml of HCl at 0.1mol.
I titrated to find the range of the mid-point colour change. The indicator is of unknown quantity, concentration and pH%26lt;5.
Is it possible to calculate the exact pH of the mid-point colour change? Bearing in mind the change was between pH 8.9 and 1.6
Is it possible to calculate Ka values?How do you calculate pH and Ka values with just concentration?
A) NaOH and HCL are strong electrolytes.
B) Indicator is for it's nature a weak acid or base, his amount has to be very small
It's impossible to reconiza optically the exact mid point because eye has not the sensibility to reconize the colour change in the exact pH point of the pH range of mid-point.
I titrated to find the range of the mid-point colour change. The indicator is of unknown quantity, concentration and pH%26lt;5.
Is it possible to calculate the exact pH of the mid-point colour change? Bearing in mind the change was between pH 8.9 and 1.6
Is it possible to calculate Ka values?How do you calculate pH and Ka values with just concentration?
A) NaOH and HCL are strong electrolytes.
B) Indicator is for it's nature a weak acid or base, his amount has to be very small
It's impossible to reconiza optically the exact mid point because eye has not the sensibility to reconize the colour change in the exact pH point of the pH range of mid-point.
How can you alter the pH of water that you feed plants?
I am doing a science experiment and we are testing the effect of pH of water, on plant growth. I need a way to alter the water's pH without changing any other variables (salinity, D.O., etc) and without harming the plants any other way than the pH. It's complicated but I NEED HELP SOON!!!How can you alter the pH of water that you feed plants?
You can slightly lower the pH of water with an inexpensive acid.
Carbonic acid (bubbling CO2 through water) will lower the pH down to a minimum value of about 4.7. Vinegar is another dilute acid. This would add an organic compound variable. CO2 might not be that easy to come by. There is CO2 in paint ball cartridges....or you could purchase dry ice and put a small piece in water to carbonate it.
Raising the pH without using a salt isn't as easy. Ammonia will raise the pH...but is also a fertilizer (source of nitrogen for plants). A lye (NaOH) would add sodium.How can you alter the pH of water that you feed plants?
Adding different amounts of vinegar (weaker) or lemon juice (stronger) will make water more acid, a small pinch of baking soda will raise the pH. You don't need to add a lot of any of these, just a drop or so per cup of water fro the acid, maybe an 1/8 to 1/4 teaspoon of baking soda per gallon. Both are safe enough to use, since they're things found in foods you eat, and you probably have them in your house.
If you're going to be growing the plants for a few weeks, you might want to set aside an old soda bottle and mix up a stronger baking soda solution, say 1-2 teaspoons of baking soda and fill with water and mix. Then use an eyedropper to add some number of drops to a gallon of water for water ing them. If you keep using the same number of drops from the same source, your pH won't change as much as trying to add a ';pinch'; of the dry powder each time. Don't worry if all the baking soda doesn't dissolve, but let the dissolved powder and water come to room temperature before using this or measuring the pH, since the temperature will affect how much will be able to be dissolved.
But anything you add will change the chemistry of the water slightly. So to have the fewest variables, only use 1 or 2 of the materials to change the pH. If you only use 1, you'll have the fewest variables, but you won't be able to both raise and lower the pH, you'll only be able to go in one direction.
You can slightly lower the pH of water with an inexpensive acid.
Carbonic acid (bubbling CO2 through water) will lower the pH down to a minimum value of about 4.7. Vinegar is another dilute acid. This would add an organic compound variable. CO2 might not be that easy to come by. There is CO2 in paint ball cartridges....or you could purchase dry ice and put a small piece in water to carbonate it.
Raising the pH without using a salt isn't as easy. Ammonia will raise the pH...but is also a fertilizer (source of nitrogen for plants). A lye (NaOH) would add sodium.How can you alter the pH of water that you feed plants?
Adding different amounts of vinegar (weaker) or lemon juice (stronger) will make water more acid, a small pinch of baking soda will raise the pH. You don't need to add a lot of any of these, just a drop or so per cup of water fro the acid, maybe an 1/8 to 1/4 teaspoon of baking soda per gallon. Both are safe enough to use, since they're things found in foods you eat, and you probably have them in your house.
If you're going to be growing the plants for a few weeks, you might want to set aside an old soda bottle and mix up a stronger baking soda solution, say 1-2 teaspoons of baking soda and fill with water and mix. Then use an eyedropper to add some number of drops to a gallon of water for water ing them. If you keep using the same number of drops from the same source, your pH won't change as much as trying to add a ';pinch'; of the dry powder each time. Don't worry if all the baking soda doesn't dissolve, but let the dissolved powder and water come to room temperature before using this or measuring the pH, since the temperature will affect how much will be able to be dissolved.
But anything you add will change the chemistry of the water slightly. So to have the fewest variables, only use 1 or 2 of the materials to change the pH. If you only use 1, you'll have the fewest variables, but you won't be able to both raise and lower the pH, you'll only be able to go in one direction.
Did anybody test their PH while TTC?
Where did you get strips? How often did you test? Did you test DH's too? Did you alter your diet to change your PH?
Did you conceive your desired gender?Did anybody test their PH while TTC?
i didn't but you might be able to find some ladies who did here, fertilityties.com diet changes can help! good luck!
Did you conceive your desired gender?Did anybody test their PH while TTC?
i didn't but you might be able to find some ladies who did here, fertilityties.com diet changes can help! good luck!
Adding a Strong Acid to a Buffer?
A beaker with 130mL of an acetic acid buffer with a pH of 5.00 is sitting on a benchtop. The total molarity of acid and conjugate base in this buffer is 0.1M . A student adds 6.20mL of a 0.290M HCl solution to the beaker. How much will the pH change? The Pk_a of acetic acid is 4.76.Adding a Strong Acid to a Buffer?
5.00 = 4.76 + log [Acetate ] / [acetic acid]
[Acetate ] / [acetic acid] =10^-0.24=0.575
We have to solve the system
Acetate + acid = 0.1
acetate / acid = 0.575
acetate = 0.0362 M
acid = 0.0635 M
Moles acetate = 0.0362 x 130 / 1000 = 0.00471
Moles acid = 0.0635 x 130 / 1000 = 0.00826
Moles HCl added = 6.20 x 0.290 / 1000 = 0.00180
The effect of the added 0.00180 mole H+ ==%26gt; decrease the moles of acetate by 0.00180 and increase the moles of acid by 0.00180 by the reaction H+ + CH3COO- %26gt;%26gt; CH3COOH
Moles acetate =0.00471 - 0.00180 = 0.00291
Moles acid = 0.00826 + 0.00180 = 0.0101
Total volume = 130 + 6.20 = 136.20 mL = 0.1362 L
Concentration acetate = 0.00291 / 0.1362 = 0.0214 M
Concentration acid = 0.0101 / 0.1362 = 0.0742 M
pH = 4.76 + log 0.0214 / 0.0742 = 4.22
5.00 = 4.76 + log [Acetate ] / [acetic acid]
[Acetate ] / [acetic acid] =10^-0.24=0.575
We have to solve the system
Acetate + acid = 0.1
acetate / acid = 0.575
acetate = 0.0362 M
acid = 0.0635 M
Moles acetate = 0.0362 x 130 / 1000 = 0.00471
Moles acid = 0.0635 x 130 / 1000 = 0.00826
Moles HCl added = 6.20 x 0.290 / 1000 = 0.00180
The effect of the added 0.00180 mole H+ ==%26gt; decrease the moles of acetate by 0.00180 and increase the moles of acid by 0.00180 by the reaction H+ + CH3COO- %26gt;%26gt; CH3COOH
Moles acetate =0.00471 - 0.00180 = 0.00291
Moles acid = 0.00826 + 0.00180 = 0.0101
Total volume = 130 + 6.20 = 136.20 mL = 0.1362 L
Concentration acetate = 0.00291 / 0.1362 = 0.0214 M
Concentration acid = 0.0101 / 0.1362 = 0.0742 M
pH = 4.76 + log 0.0214 / 0.0742 = 4.22
Biology Multiple Choice?
A buffer:
a. changes pH by a magnitude of 10.
b. absorbs excess OH-
c. releases excess H+
d. is often a weak acid-base pair.
e. always maintains a neutral pH
...
Also, how many times more basic is a substance with a pH of 11 compared to a substance with a pH of 7?Biology Multiple Choice?
A buffer is a solution that minimizes changes in pH which is made by adding a weak acid to its conjugate base
Its more of a chemistry question thoughBiology Multiple Choice?
e is the correct choice. I don't know about the second question though.
The answer is D , that is how it maintains the level it doesn't make it neutral it just adjusts it.
D is correct buffers are a mixture of a weak acid and its conjugate base or a weak base and its conjugate acid.
And for question 2 its the antilog of 4. Therefore its 10,000 stronger than a neutral pH. IT would be 10^(11-7). So 10^4.myspace songs usb massstorage device suppose
a. changes pH by a magnitude of 10.
b. absorbs excess OH-
c. releases excess H+
d. is often a weak acid-base pair.
e. always maintains a neutral pH
...
Also, how many times more basic is a substance with a pH of 11 compared to a substance with a pH of 7?Biology Multiple Choice?
A buffer is a solution that minimizes changes in pH which is made by adding a weak acid to its conjugate base
Its more of a chemistry question thoughBiology Multiple Choice?
e is the correct choice. I don't know about the second question though.
The answer is D , that is how it maintains the level it doesn't make it neutral it just adjusts it.
D is correct buffers are a mixture of a weak acid and its conjugate base or a weak base and its conjugate acid.
And for question 2 its the antilog of 4. Therefore its 10,000 stronger than a neutral pH. IT would be 10^(11-7). So 10^4.
How would I know if voltage of a volcaic battery is affected by pH changes?
Based on the following statement:
';When balanced, the coefficient x in the equation Cu+xNOsubscript';3'; --%26gt; xNO +Cusuperscript';2+'; is equal to 2';....
based on this statement, the voltage of a voltaic battery is a) unaffected by pH changes, b) increases with increasing pH, c) decreases with increasing pH, or d) is negative. Please explain, if possible, so I can answer a variation of this question on a test. Thank you!How would I know if voltage of a volcaic battery is affected by pH changes?
Ah, Dr. D's class I see?
Write out the two half reactions:
Cu -%26gt; (Cu2+) + (2e-)
(4H+) + (3e-) + (NO3-) -%26gt; (NO) + (2H2O)
Right?
So, if you want to combine these, multiply the Cu half reaction by 3 and the NO3- half reaction by 2. The electrons cancel out, and that is why the answer to #16 is B.
Now, the SECOND you see H+ on either side of a half reaction, you know for sure that the reaction is affected by pH. Ok? Just remember that. Also remember that H+ is reactive. As pH goes up, things get more basic- which means less H+ ions. This means less reactivity. Less H+ means less voltage. The answer is C) The voltage decreases with increasing pH!
Good luck on your Midterm! :)
';When balanced, the coefficient x in the equation Cu+xNOsubscript';3'; --%26gt; xNO +Cusuperscript';2+'; is equal to 2';....
based on this statement, the voltage of a voltaic battery is a) unaffected by pH changes, b) increases with increasing pH, c) decreases with increasing pH, or d) is negative. Please explain, if possible, so I can answer a variation of this question on a test. Thank you!How would I know if voltage of a volcaic battery is affected by pH changes?
Ah, Dr. D's class I see?
Write out the two half reactions:
Cu -%26gt; (Cu2+) + (2e-)
(4H+) + (3e-) + (NO3-) -%26gt; (NO) + (2H2O)
Right?
So, if you want to combine these, multiply the Cu half reaction by 3 and the NO3- half reaction by 2. The electrons cancel out, and that is why the answer to #16 is B.
Now, the SECOND you see H+ on either side of a half reaction, you know for sure that the reaction is affected by pH. Ok? Just remember that. Also remember that H+ is reactive. As pH goes up, things get more basic- which means less H+ ions. This means less reactivity. Less H+ means less voltage. The answer is C) The voltage decreases with increasing pH!
Good luck on your Midterm! :)
PH changes after acid/base additions to a buffer? ?
I have a 100ml buffer comprised of 5ml 0.5M Na2HPO4 and 5mL 0.5M NaH2PO4. The pKa for this solution is 6.82. My question is, after adding 3mL of 1M HCl, how would I work out the new pH?
Using the Henderson-Hasselbalch equation is not an option, because if we begin with a ratio of 2.5:2.5 (the concentration of the base and acid respectively), with the addition of 3mM HCl, we end up with a theoretical concentration of the base which equals -0.05mM. Aside from the impossible negative concentration for my base, this figure also renders the Henderson-Hasselbalch equation useless, as it is not possible to take the log10 value of a negative number (that I'm familiar with).
Thanks, any help would be greatly appreciated! PH changes after acid/base additions to a buffer? ?
ok well with the added HCl in excess of the buffer capacity this simply means that 2.5 mmmoles of the HCl will react with the 2.5 mmoles of the base form producing 2.5 MORE mmoles of the weak acid form...BUT leaving 0.5 mmoles of H+ NOT buffered .So this strong acid will inhibit any ionization of the weak acid and pH can be calculated directly from the excess strong acid....0.5 mmoles /103 mL = 4.85 X 10^-3 M
pH = -log 4.85 X 10^-3 = 2.32PH changes after acid/base additions to a buffer? ?
Adding HCl will decrease the base component of the buffer (Na2HPO4) and increase the acid component (NaH2PO4) by the same amount. This change in moles equals the moles of the HCl. Get the new molarities or just use the adjusted moles to get buffer pH using Hendersen-Hasselbalch eqn.
Using the Henderson-Hasselbalch equation is not an option, because if we begin with a ratio of 2.5:2.5 (the concentration of the base and acid respectively), with the addition of 3mM HCl, we end up with a theoretical concentration of the base which equals -0.05mM. Aside from the impossible negative concentration for my base, this figure also renders the Henderson-Hasselbalch equation useless, as it is not possible to take the log10 value of a negative number (that I'm familiar with).
Thanks, any help would be greatly appreciated! PH changes after acid/base additions to a buffer? ?
ok well with the added HCl in excess of the buffer capacity this simply means that 2.5 mmmoles of the HCl will react with the 2.5 mmoles of the base form producing 2.5 MORE mmoles of the weak acid form...BUT leaving 0.5 mmoles of H+ NOT buffered .So this strong acid will inhibit any ionization of the weak acid and pH can be calculated directly from the excess strong acid....0.5 mmoles /103 mL = 4.85 X 10^-3 M
pH = -log 4.85 X 10^-3 = 2.32PH changes after acid/base additions to a buffer? ?
Adding HCl will decrease the base component of the buffer (Na2HPO4) and increase the acid component (NaH2PO4) by the same amount. This change in moles equals the moles of the HCl. Get the new molarities or just use the adjusted moles to get buffer pH using Hendersen-Hasselbalch eqn.
What is the pH of pure NaOH?
im doing a project, about a possible NaOH spill. I have to know details of the chemical, how it changes the pH of a lake when it is dropped in, and what the actual pH of NaOH is. Can anyone help me?What is the pH of pure NaOH?
NaOH is Sodium hydroxide, but commonly called lye or caustic soda. It is a white solid that is prepared in both pellet and flake forms. Solids do not have a pH. Solutions can have a pH. Water is the usual solvent.
About 111 grams of NaOH will dissolve in 100 mL at room temperature. This is a very high solubility. Experiments have determined that the pH of a saturated solution of Sodium hydroxide will usually be about 15.1 to 15.5. This will lower over time as Carbon dioxide is absorbed into the solution.
As a solid, NaOH is hygroscopic. It will actually pull water from the atmosphere. If add to water, it will readily dissolve but in doing so will also generate a great deal of heat often causing the water to boil.
In the area around the spill, the temperature of the water will rise and the pH will also rise significantly.
The last site below is about a train derailment last July in McKean County, PA, dumped 48,000 gallons of sodium hydroxide into a stream.What is the pH of pure NaOH?
Thank you. It was a good question.
Pure pH of NaOH is 14.
The formal definition of pH is the negative logarithm of the Hydrogen ion activity.Molecules that dissociate easily will form strong acids or bases when in aqueous solution
This is why the Ph of aqueous NaOH is 14 as it is a base when mixed into the lake water the Ph value of the lake is going to shot up as NaOH is a strong base. The water becomes more basic.
Putting NaOH into a lake will increase the pH, since it is a base.
Pure NaOH in the solid form does not have a pH, since it is not ionized and no OH- ions are formed. The maximum measureable pH of a solution of NaOH is 14.
NaOH is a solid, so it has no pH until it is dissolved in water.
The maximum pH measurable is NOT 14, as there are many pH instruments availalbe that measure beyond the range of 0-14. Usually the highest concentration of NaOH you can get is about 50% by weight, which corresponds to somewhere around 15 M with a pH around 15.2.
NaOH is Sodium hydroxide, but commonly called lye or caustic soda. It is a white solid that is prepared in both pellet and flake forms. Solids do not have a pH. Solutions can have a pH. Water is the usual solvent.
About 111 grams of NaOH will dissolve in 100 mL at room temperature. This is a very high solubility. Experiments have determined that the pH of a saturated solution of Sodium hydroxide will usually be about 15.1 to 15.5. This will lower over time as Carbon dioxide is absorbed into the solution.
As a solid, NaOH is hygroscopic. It will actually pull water from the atmosphere. If add to water, it will readily dissolve but in doing so will also generate a great deal of heat often causing the water to boil.
In the area around the spill, the temperature of the water will rise and the pH will also rise significantly.
The last site below is about a train derailment last July in McKean County, PA, dumped 48,000 gallons of sodium hydroxide into a stream.What is the pH of pure NaOH?
Thank you. It was a good question.
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Pure pH of NaOH is 14.
The formal definition of pH is the negative logarithm of the Hydrogen ion activity.Molecules that dissociate easily will form strong acids or bases when in aqueous solution
This is why the Ph of aqueous NaOH is 14 as it is a base when mixed into the lake water the Ph value of the lake is going to shot up as NaOH is a strong base. The water becomes more basic.
Putting NaOH into a lake will increase the pH, since it is a base.
Pure NaOH in the solid form does not have a pH, since it is not ionized and no OH- ions are formed. The maximum measureable pH of a solution of NaOH is 14.
NaOH is a solid, so it has no pH until it is dissolved in water.
The maximum pH measurable is NOT 14, as there are many pH instruments availalbe that measure beyond the range of 0-14. Usually the highest concentration of NaOH you can get is about 50% by weight, which corresponds to somewhere around 15 M with a pH around 15.2.
Why and How does pH level change?
Over the past weeks I've been doing an Ecobottle project in my grade 10 science class . We've been observing the pH levels in our tanks which are now sealed off to observe if our guppy , snail and aquatic plant can support their own ecosystem.
As i observed the water's pH level , ive noticed its been around 6 - 7 pH , which is normal from what i've been told .
Oh, and the water was just tap water.
So , now i just need an explaination on why pH levels change, and how they do . thank you ! :DWhy and How does pH level change?
Carbon dioxide lowers the pH. I would say pH is low at night and higher in the day time, because in the day time plants remove CO2 from the water. Why and How does pH level change?
pH is how acidic / alkaline something is. 1 is the most acidic, 7 is neutral and 14 is the most alkaline. tap water is neutral (7)
As i observed the water's pH level , ive noticed its been around 6 - 7 pH , which is normal from what i've been told .
Oh, and the water was just tap water.
So , now i just need an explaination on why pH levels change, and how they do . thank you ! :DWhy and How does pH level change?
Carbon dioxide lowers the pH. I would say pH is low at night and higher in the day time, because in the day time plants remove CO2 from the water. Why and How does pH level change?
pH is how acidic / alkaline something is. 1 is the most acidic, 7 is neutral and 14 is the most alkaline. tap water is neutral (7)
Why does the pH lvl change (go up) when KOH is added to water?
Heres my full question:
';If KOH were added to WATER, and the potassium (K) became an ion (K+) and the OH- was ';released'; into the water, would the oH of the water change? y or n. If yes it would go ____ (up or down).
I have the answers that my teacher gave us as being: YES and UP.
I need to know why. I need to know how I should know that with out knowing the pH lvls.....like I need to know how she thinks Im supposed to just know this.....I understand the pH scale and everything...I just dont know how Im supposed to know that with her only saying that I have a + ion and a - ion.....
Please tell me how and why with out knowing the pH lvls of each thing.
Thanks!Why does the pH lvl change (go up) when KOH is added to water?
pH is an indication not only of [H+] concentration, but also of [OH-]. pH 1-7 indicates acidic (i.e. H+ present), pH 7 is neutral (concentration of H+ = OH- or neither present) pH 7-14 indicates basic solution (i.e. OH- present). Therefore as more OH- is present, pH increases. Water is considered netural, therefore is you *** KOH and it dissociates into K+ and OH-, then obviously amt of OH- in water increases and it's pH goes up.camcorders advice on improving
';If KOH were added to WATER, and the potassium (K) became an ion (K+) and the OH- was ';released'; into the water, would the oH of the water change? y or n. If yes it would go ____ (up or down).
I have the answers that my teacher gave us as being: YES and UP.
I need to know why. I need to know how I should know that with out knowing the pH lvls.....like I need to know how she thinks Im supposed to just know this.....I understand the pH scale and everything...I just dont know how Im supposed to know that with her only saying that I have a + ion and a - ion.....
Please tell me how and why with out knowing the pH lvls of each thing.
Thanks!Why does the pH lvl change (go up) when KOH is added to water?
pH is an indication not only of [H+] concentration, but also of [OH-]. pH 1-7 indicates acidic (i.e. H+ present), pH 7 is neutral (concentration of H+ = OH- or neither present) pH 7-14 indicates basic solution (i.e. OH- present). Therefore as more OH- is present, pH increases. Water is considered netural, therefore is you *** KOH and it dissociates into K+ and OH-, then obviously amt of OH- in water increases and it's pH goes up.
Changing the pH level?
I need help and dont understand how to change the pH level from say 9 to 10, or 9 to 8! please help!Changing the pH level?
If you want to make the soil (I'm assuming you want to change the pH of soil?) more acidic, you would add things that are lower on the pH scale:
*Lemons
*Vinegar
*Lime
Basic:
*Aluminum Sulfate
*Sulfur (However this takes longer)Changing the pH level?
pH is the negative decade logarithm of the concentration of H+ ions. so you have to change this concentration in order to change pH. this can be done by adding an acid (pH goes down) or a base (pH goes up). or you could stabilize the pH at a certain level with a buffer.
If you want to make the soil (I'm assuming you want to change the pH of soil?) more acidic, you would add things that are lower on the pH scale:
*Lemons
*Vinegar
*Lime
Basic:
*Aluminum Sulfate
*Sulfur (However this takes longer)Changing the pH level?
pH is the negative decade logarithm of the concentration of H+ ions. so you have to change this concentration in order to change pH. this can be done by adding an acid (pH goes down) or a base (pH goes up). or you could stabilize the pH at a certain level with a buffer.
How can i raise my aquarium pH to 8.2 ?
i have fresh water African cichlids in my 20 gallon tank i have no proper pH changing liquid in any of my nearest stores so please tell me how can i raise my pH to 8.2 locally at home without using any ready made product.How can i raise my aquarium pH to 8.2 ?
Welp, get some pH test strips, keep putting in some acids and some bases until it's 8.2.
Ha ha, don't listen to me. But I think I'm somewhat right there.How can i raise my aquarium pH to 8.2 ?
Using home made products would probably add other chemicals, as well as whatever alkaline solution changes the PH in the tank, so I don't know if that would be safe for the fish?
I think sea water is alkali, maybe you could scoop some of that up :P
You can mix your own African cichlid salt mix.
Baking soda
Epsom salts
Aquarium Marine salt.
This will increase both the pH and hardness of the water to approximate the natural enviroment of your fish.
Details / Recipe here
http://fishandpics.com/2008/07/diy-cichl
Mix up a barrel of that mix, test it to make sure you have them mix right, then start doing your regular water changes with that water
Adding liimestone or crushed coral to the tank will also help buffer the pH and hardness to the correct levels.
Ian
$3.99, at the grocery store there is a product called Mrs wages Pickling lime,
look for it near the masonry jars, this is the same stuff we in the saltwater world call kalkwrasser, we use it to matain calcium and alkalinity,
mix 2-3 teaspons per gallon of water. mix it for an hour and then let it sit for a day or so, there will be a crust on top and a sludge in the bottom but the clear water in the middle will have a ph of 14, slow drip it into the aquarium, use no more than a gallon a day, untill your ph balances out, it sounds more complicated than it is but it is the best and cheapest way to maintain cal alk and ph in an aquarium
make sure to test a day after each use to make sure your not overdoing anything
You could change your substrate to a ';Crushed Coral'; that should do the trick, Its the only way really to get a significant change. Your local fish store should have something of that sort. What it is is a bunch of crushed up sea shells and pieces of rock coral. the salt in the sea shells and the coral as well as the magnesium and other chemicals from the ocean it self is what you need
Welp, get some pH test strips, keep putting in some acids and some bases until it's 8.2.
Ha ha, don't listen to me. But I think I'm somewhat right there.How can i raise my aquarium pH to 8.2 ?
Using home made products would probably add other chemicals, as well as whatever alkaline solution changes the PH in the tank, so I don't know if that would be safe for the fish?
I think sea water is alkali, maybe you could scoop some of that up :P
You can mix your own African cichlid salt mix.
Baking soda
Epsom salts
Aquarium Marine salt.
This will increase both the pH and hardness of the water to approximate the natural enviroment of your fish.
Details / Recipe here
http://fishandpics.com/2008/07/diy-cichl
Mix up a barrel of that mix, test it to make sure you have them mix right, then start doing your regular water changes with that water
Adding liimestone or crushed coral to the tank will also help buffer the pH and hardness to the correct levels.
Ian
$3.99, at the grocery store there is a product called Mrs wages Pickling lime,
look for it near the masonry jars, this is the same stuff we in the saltwater world call kalkwrasser, we use it to matain calcium and alkalinity,
mix 2-3 teaspons per gallon of water. mix it for an hour and then let it sit for a day or so, there will be a crust on top and a sludge in the bottom but the clear water in the middle will have a ph of 14, slow drip it into the aquarium, use no more than a gallon a day, untill your ph balances out, it sounds more complicated than it is but it is the best and cheapest way to maintain cal alk and ph in an aquarium
make sure to test a day after each use to make sure your not overdoing anything
You could change your substrate to a ';Crushed Coral'; that should do the trick, Its the only way really to get a significant change. Your local fish store should have something of that sort. What it is is a bunch of crushed up sea shells and pieces of rock coral. the salt in the sea shells and the coral as well as the magnesium and other chemicals from the ocean it self is what you need
PH of water and hydrochloric acid?
How do I calculate the change in pH if 50mL of water is added to 20mL of a 0.50 mol/L solution of hydrochloric acid?PH of water and hydrochloric acid?
You have to calculate the number of moles to find the pH. you diluted your solution with 20 ml of water so you can use this equation:M1V1=M2V2
M being concentration and V being volume.
You have to calculate the number of moles to find the pH. you diluted your solution with 20 ml of water so you can use this equation:M1V1=M2V2
M being concentration and V being volume.
Determine how many times greater [H+] is if the blood's ph changes from 7.4 to 7.1?
do i have to the logarithmDetermine how many times greater [H+] is if the blood's ph changes from 7.4 to 7.1?
7.4 - 7.1 = 0.3
10^0.3 = ~2.
2x greater.Determine how many times greater [H+] is if the blood's ph changes from 7.4 to 7.1?
O_o
yep its -log base 10 so a 10 fold increase for each pH unit decrease
7.4 - 7.1 = 0.3
10^0.3 = ~2.
2x greater.Determine how many times greater [H+] is if the blood's ph changes from 7.4 to 7.1?
O_o
yep its -log base 10 so a 10 fold increase for each pH unit decrease
Does changing the concentration of a acid affect is pH?? if so how??
thats pretty much it if adding water to a acid to dilute it would it change the ph and would it go up or down??Does changing the concentration of a acid affect is pH?? if so how??
pH = -log [ concentration of H+]
so when you dilute it, concentration would decrease and hence it would be less acidic..
just remember the low pH means acidic and high Ph means alkaline.. so, when you dilute and acid, the pH would increase..Does changing the concentration of a acid affect is pH?? if so how??
If you added water to an acid to dilute it, it's pH level would become closer to the 'neutral' level. It really depends on what acid you have there, but diluting it with water would generally make it less acidic i think, but keep in mind the 'neutral' level is a very thin line in between the two, and is very easy to become acidic or alkaline.
pH = -log [ concentration of H+]
so when you dilute it, concentration would decrease and hence it would be less acidic..
just remember the low pH means acidic and high Ph means alkaline.. so, when you dilute and acid, the pH would increase..Does changing the concentration of a acid affect is pH?? if so how??
If you added water to an acid to dilute it, it's pH level would become closer to the 'neutral' level. It really depends on what acid you have there, but diluting it with water would generally make it less acidic i think, but keep in mind the 'neutral' level is a very thin line in between the two, and is very easy to become acidic or alkaline.
How would acid rain effect the PH of the soil in sod/turf?
I need to know the approximate PH of a normal type of the soil in sod/turf, then how the PH would change with acid rain. Please explain beyond, ';it becomes more acidic.'; Thanks.How would acid rain effect the PH of the soil in sod/turf?
ILIVE IN THE ADIRONDACKS, ACID RAIN REALLY DID A NUMBER ON US, HERE HOW IT WORKS. ACID RAIN COMES DOWN, RUNS THREW SOIL ,OVER ROCKS AND SUCH..THE ACID BREAKS DOWN MINERALS MIXING THEM TO EXTREMES IN RUN OFF. IN LAKES PONDS. KILLING A DELECATE BALANCE.How would acid rain effect the PH of the soil in sod/turf?
';Most lawn grasses thrive in 6.0-7.0 pH soil.';
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sod
';The correct pH level for lawn and sod areas is between 6.0 and 6.8.';
http://www.delaliosod.com/preparation.ht
When the pH level of rainwater goes below 5.6, it is considered acid rain.
Acid rain can lower the soil pH below 5.5.
http://library.thinkquest.org/CR0215471/
This low soil pH will reduce the activity of soil microbes that decompose organic matter to release nitrogen in a plant available form. Low soil pH also reduces the availabilty of essential plant mineral nutrients, such as calcium, magnesium, potassium, phosphorus, boron and molybdenum.
http://www.madsci.org/posts/archives/sep
ILIVE IN THE ADIRONDACKS, ACID RAIN REALLY DID A NUMBER ON US, HERE HOW IT WORKS. ACID RAIN COMES DOWN, RUNS THREW SOIL ,OVER ROCKS AND SUCH..THE ACID BREAKS DOWN MINERALS MIXING THEM TO EXTREMES IN RUN OFF. IN LAKES PONDS. KILLING A DELECATE BALANCE.How would acid rain effect the PH of the soil in sod/turf?
';Most lawn grasses thrive in 6.0-7.0 pH soil.';
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sod
';The correct pH level for lawn and sod areas is between 6.0 and 6.8.';
http://www.delaliosod.com/preparation.ht
When the pH level of rainwater goes below 5.6, it is considered acid rain.
Acid rain can lower the soil pH below 5.5.
http://library.thinkquest.org/CR0215471/
This low soil pH will reduce the activity of soil microbes that decompose organic matter to release nitrogen in a plant available form. Low soil pH also reduces the availabilty of essential plant mineral nutrients, such as calcium, magnesium, potassium, phosphorus, boron and molybdenum.
http://www.madsci.org/posts/archives/sep
Can someone please help me with this chemistry problem?
If we add 0.010 mol of solid NaOH to 1.00 liter of a buffer solution that is 0.100 M in CH3COOH and 0.100 M in NaCH3COO, how much will [H3O+] and pH change? Assume that there is no volume change due to the addition of solid NaOH.Can someone please help me with this chemistry problem?
fianl pH = pKa + lg [base]/[acid]
= -lg (Ka) + lg[(0.1+0.01)/(0.1-0.01)]
fianl pH = pKa + lg [base]/[acid]
= -lg (Ka) + lg[(0.1+0.01)/(0.1-0.01)]
How do you do this chem problem?? A beaker with 140 mL of an acetic acid buffer with a pH of 5.00 is sittin on?
A beaker with 140 mL of an acetic acid buffer with a pH of 5.00 is sitting on a benchtop. The total molarity of acid and conjugate base in this buffer is 0.100 M. A student adds 6.90 mL of a 0.410 M HCl solution to the beaker. How much will the pH change? The pKa of acetic acid is 4.760.How do you do this chem problem?? A beaker with 140 mL of an acetic acid buffer with a pH of 5.00 is sittin on?
let x = [acetate] and let y = [acetic acid]
5.00 = 4.760 + log x/y
10^0.24 =1.74 = x/y
1.74 y = x
x + y = 0.100 M
1.74 y + y = 0.100
2.74 y = 0.100
y = 0.0365 M
x = 0.0635 M
moles acetate = 0.0635 x 0.140 L=0.00889
moles acetic acid = 0.0365 x 0.140 L=0.00511
moles HCl = 6.90 x 10^-3 L x 0.410=0.00283
CH3COO- + H+ = CH3COOH
moles acetate = 0.00889 - 0.00283 =0.00606
moles acetic acid = 0.00511 + 0.00283 =0.00794
total volume = 140 + 6.90=146.9 mL = 0.1469 L
[acetate] = 0.00606/ 0.1469=0.0413 M
[acetic acid ]= 0.00794/ 0.1469=0.0541 M
pH = 4.760 + log 0.0413 / 0.0541= 4.64
let x = [acetate] and let y = [acetic acid]
5.00 = 4.760 + log x/y
10^0.24 =1.74 = x/y
1.74 y = x
x + y = 0.100 M
1.74 y + y = 0.100
2.74 y = 0.100
y = 0.0365 M
x = 0.0635 M
moles acetate = 0.0635 x 0.140 L=0.00889
moles acetic acid = 0.0365 x 0.140 L=0.00511
moles HCl = 6.90 x 10^-3 L x 0.410=0.00283
CH3COO- + H+ = CH3COOH
moles acetate = 0.00889 - 0.00283 =0.00606
moles acetic acid = 0.00511 + 0.00283 =0.00794
total volume = 140 + 6.90=146.9 mL = 0.1469 L
[acetate] = 0.00606/ 0.1469=0.0413 M
[acetic acid ]= 0.00794/ 0.1469=0.0541 M
pH = 4.760 + log 0.0413 / 0.0541= 4.64
A beaker with 150 mL of an acetic acid buffer with a pH of 5.00 is sitting on ...?
A beaker with 150 mL of an acetic acid buffer with a pH of 5.00 is sitting on a benchtop. The total molarity of acid and conjugate base in this buffer is 0.100 M. A student adds 4.10 mL of a 0.480 M HCl solution to the beaker. How much will the pH change? The pKa of acetic acid is 4.760A beaker with 150 mL of an acetic acid buffer with a pH of 5.00 is sitting on ...?
let x = concentration acid
let y = concentration conjugate base
x + y = 0.100
5.00 = 4.760 + log y/x
we must solve this system
5.00 - 4.760 = log y/x
0.24 = log y/x
10^0.24 =1.74 = y/x
1.74 x = y
x + 1.74 x = 0.100
2.74 x = 0.100
x =0.0365 M = concentration acid
0.100 - 0.0365 =0.0635 M= concentration conjugate base
moles acid = 0.150 L x 0.0365 M= 0.00548
moles conjugate base = 0.0635 M x 0.150 L=0.00953
moles HCl = 4.10 x 10^-3 L x 0.480 M=0.00197
A- + H+ = HA
moles conjugate base = 0.00953 - 0.00197=0.00756
moles acid = 0.00548 + 0.00197=0.00745
total volume = 150 + 4.10 = 154.1 mL = 0.1541 L
concentration acid = 0.00745/ 0.1541 =0.0483 M
concentration conjugate base = 0.00756/ 0.1541 =0.0491 M
pH = 4.760 + log 0.0491/ 0.0483=4.77
change pH = 5.00 - 4.77=0.23hoping for some advice how to be friends with a guy
let x = concentration acid
let y = concentration conjugate base
x + y = 0.100
5.00 = 4.760 + log y/x
we must solve this system
5.00 - 4.760 = log y/x
0.24 = log y/x
10^0.24 =1.74 = y/x
1.74 x = y
x + 1.74 x = 0.100
2.74 x = 0.100
x =0.0365 M = concentration acid
0.100 - 0.0365 =0.0635 M= concentration conjugate base
moles acid = 0.150 L x 0.0365 M= 0.00548
moles conjugate base = 0.0635 M x 0.150 L=0.00953
moles HCl = 4.10 x 10^-3 L x 0.480 M=0.00197
A- + H+ = HA
moles conjugate base = 0.00953 - 0.00197=0.00756
moles acid = 0.00548 + 0.00197=0.00745
total volume = 150 + 4.10 = 154.1 mL = 0.1541 L
concentration acid = 0.00745/ 0.1541 =0.0483 M
concentration conjugate base = 0.00756/ 0.1541 =0.0491 M
pH = 4.760 + log 0.0491/ 0.0483=4.77
change pH = 5.00 - 4.77=0.23
A beaker with 100 mL of an acetic acid buffer with a pH of 5.00 is sitting on a benchtop. The total molarity?
of acid and conjugate base in this buffer is 0.100 M. A student adds 6.40 mL of a 0.400 M HCl solution to the beaker. How much will the pH change? The pKa of acetic acid is 4.760. Express your answer numerically to two decimal places. Use a minus (-) sign if the pH has decreased.
Bonus points for this one! Thanks!!A beaker with 100 mL of an acetic acid buffer with a pH of 5.00 is sitting on a benchtop. The total molarity?
5.00 - 4.760 =0.24
10^0.24 = 1.74 = [acetate]/ [acetic acid]
1.74 [acetic acid] = [acetate]
[acetate]+ [acetic acid]= 0.100
1.74 [acetic acid] + [acetic acid] = 0.100
[acetic acid] = 0.0365 M
[acetate]= 0.100 - 0.0440=0.0635 M
moles acetic acid = 0.0365 M x 0.100 L = 0.00365
moles acetate = 0.0635 x 0.100 L = 0.00635
moles H+ added = 6.40 x 10^-3 L x 0.400 M=0.00256
CH3COO- + H+ = CH3COOH
moles acetate = 0.00635 - 0.00256 =0.00379
moles acetic acid = 0.00365 + 0.00256=0.00621
pH = 4.760 + log 0.00379/ 0.00621 = 4.55
Bonus points for this one! Thanks!!A beaker with 100 mL of an acetic acid buffer with a pH of 5.00 is sitting on a benchtop. The total molarity?
5.00 - 4.760 =0.24
10^0.24 = 1.74 = [acetate]/ [acetic acid]
1.74 [acetic acid] = [acetate]
[acetate]+ [acetic acid]= 0.100
1.74 [acetic acid] + [acetic acid] = 0.100
[acetic acid] = 0.0365 M
[acetate]= 0.100 - 0.0440=0.0635 M
moles acetic acid = 0.0365 M x 0.100 L = 0.00365
moles acetate = 0.0635 x 0.100 L = 0.00635
moles H+ added = 6.40 x 10^-3 L x 0.400 M=0.00256
CH3COO- + H+ = CH3COOH
moles acetate = 0.00635 - 0.00256 =0.00379
moles acetic acid = 0.00365 + 0.00256=0.00621
pH = 4.760 + log 0.00379/ 0.00621 = 4.55
A beaker with 185 mL of an acetic acid buffer with a pH of 5.00 is sitting on a benchtop. The total molarity o?
A beaker with 185 mL of an acetic acid buffer with a pH of 5.00 is sitting on a benchtop. The total molarity of acid and conjugate base in this buffer is 0.100 M. A student adds 4.9 mL of a 0.290 M HCl solution to the beaker. How much will the pH change? The pKa of acetic acid is 4.760.A beaker with 185 mL of an acetic acid buffer with a pH of 5.00 is sitting on a benchtop. The total molarity o?
let x = [acetic acid]
let y = [acetate]
x + y = 0.100
5.00 = 4.760 + log y/x
0.24 = log y/x
10^0.24 = y/x =1.74
y = 1.74 x
x + 1.74 x = 0.100
2.74 x = 0.100
x = 0.0365 M
y = 0.0635 M
moles acetic acid = 0.0365 x 0.185 L = 0.00675
moles acetate = 0.0635 x 0.185 L=0.0117
moles H+ added = 4.9 x 10^-3 L x 0.290 = 1.42 x 10^-3
moles acetic acid = 0.00675 + 1.42 x 10^-3 = 0.00817
moles acetate = 0.0117 - 1.42 x 10^-3=0.0103
pH = 4.760 + log 0.0103/ 0.00817= 4.86
let x = [acetic acid]
let y = [acetate]
x + y = 0.100
5.00 = 4.760 + log y/x
0.24 = log y/x
10^0.24 = y/x =1.74
y = 1.74 x
x + 1.74 x = 0.100
2.74 x = 0.100
x = 0.0365 M
y = 0.0635 M
moles acetic acid = 0.0365 x 0.185 L = 0.00675
moles acetate = 0.0635 x 0.185 L=0.0117
moles H+ added = 4.9 x 10^-3 L x 0.290 = 1.42 x 10^-3
moles acetic acid = 0.00675 + 1.42 x 10^-3 = 0.00817
moles acetate = 0.0117 - 1.42 x 10^-3=0.0103
pH = 4.760 + log 0.0103/ 0.00817= 4.86
A beaker with 110 mL of an acetic acid buffer with a pH of 5.00 is sitting on a benchtop.?
A beaker with 110 mL of an acetic acid buffer with a pH of 5.00 is sitting on a benchtop. The total molarity of acid and conjugate base in this buffer is 0.1 M. A student adds 9.00 mL of a 0.420 M HCLsolution to the beaker. How much will the pH change? The pKa of acetic acid is 4.76.A beaker with 110 mL of an acetic acid buffer with a pH of 5.00 is sitting on a benchtop.?
That pH = 5.00 means [H+] = 10^-5.00 M.
That the pKa of acetic acid is 4.76, means:
10^-4.76 = [H+]*[AC-]/[HAC], or:
[AC-]/[HAC] = 10^0.24 = 1.738
adding 1 to both side, we have:
0.1/[HAC] = ([HAC]+[AC-])/[HAC] = 2.738
Thus [HAC] = 0.1/2.738 = 0.0365 (M)
and [AC-] = 0.1000 - 0.0365 = 0.0635 (M)
Right after increasing the volume to 119ml, the concentrations are:
[HAC] = 0.0365M *(110/119) = (4.015/119)M
and [AC-] = 0.0635M *(110/119) = (6.985/119)M
Making 9.00mL of a 0.420 M HCL solution to a final 119ml would dilute the HCl solution to:
0.420M *(9.00/119) = (3.78/119)M
Mixing HCl and AC- will cause the reaction to form Cl- and HAC. Thus the new concentrations are:
[HAC] = (4.015/119)M + (3.78/119)M = (7.795/119)M
and [AC-] = (6.985/119)M - (3.78/119)M = (3.205/119)M
Hence:
Ka = 10^-4.76 = [H+]*[AC-]/[HAC] = [H+]*3.205/7.795
pH = -log([H+]) = -log(10^-4.76*7.795/3.205) = 4.37
That pH = 5.00 means [H+] = 10^-5.00 M.
That the pKa of acetic acid is 4.76, means:
10^-4.76 = [H+]*[AC-]/[HAC], or:
[AC-]/[HAC] = 10^0.24 = 1.738
adding 1 to both side, we have:
0.1/[HAC] = ([HAC]+[AC-])/[HAC] = 2.738
Thus [HAC] = 0.1/2.738 = 0.0365 (M)
and [AC-] = 0.1000 - 0.0365 = 0.0635 (M)
Right after increasing the volume to 119ml, the concentrations are:
[HAC] = 0.0365M *(110/119) = (4.015/119)M
and [AC-] = 0.0635M *(110/119) = (6.985/119)M
Making 9.00mL of a 0.420 M HCL solution to a final 119ml would dilute the HCl solution to:
0.420M *(9.00/119) = (3.78/119)M
Mixing HCl and AC- will cause the reaction to form Cl- and HAC. Thus the new concentrations are:
[HAC] = (4.015/119)M + (3.78/119)M = (7.795/119)M
and [AC-] = (6.985/119)M - (3.78/119)M = (3.205/119)M
Hence:
Ka = 10^-4.76 = [H+]*[AC-]/[HAC] = [H+]*3.205/7.795
pH = -log([H+]) = -log(10^-4.76*7.795/3.205) = 4.37
A beaker with 165 of an acetic acid buffer with a pH of 5.00 is sitting on a benchtop?
A beaker with 165 mL of an acetic acid buffer with a pH of 5.00 is sitting on a benchtop. The total molarity of acid and conjugate base in this buffer is 0.1 M. A student adds 4.40 mL of a 0.400 M HCl solution to the beaker. How much will the pH change? The pK_a of acetic acid is 4.76.A beaker with 165 of an acetic acid buffer with a pH of 5.00 is sitting on a benchtop?
let x = Molarity acid and let y = molarity acetate
x + y = 0.1
5.00 = 4.74 + log y / x
5.00 = 4.74 + log 0.1 - x / x
10^0.26 = 1.82 = 0.1 - x / x
1.82 x = 0.1 - x
2.82 x = 0.1
x = 0.0355 M
y = 0.1 - 0.0355 = 0.0645 M
moles acid = 0.0355 x 0.165 L = 0.00586
moles acetate = 0.0645 x 0.165 = 0.0106
Moles HCl = 0.400 x 0.0044 L = 0.00176
CH3COO- + H+ %26gt;%26gt; CH3COOH
moles acid = 0.00586 + 0.00176 = 0.00762
moles acetate = 0.0106 - 0.00176 = 0.00884
total volume = 165 + 4.4 = 169.4 mL = 0.169 L
concentration acid = 0.00762 / 0.169 = 0.0450 M
concentration acetate = 0.00884 / 0.169 = 0.0523 M
pH = 4.74 + log 0.0523 / 0.0450 = 4.81
let x = Molarity acid and let y = molarity acetate
x + y = 0.1
5.00 = 4.74 + log y / x
5.00 = 4.74 + log 0.1 - x / x
10^0.26 = 1.82 = 0.1 - x / x
1.82 x = 0.1 - x
2.82 x = 0.1
x = 0.0355 M
y = 0.1 - 0.0355 = 0.0645 M
moles acid = 0.0355 x 0.165 L = 0.00586
moles acetate = 0.0645 x 0.165 = 0.0106
Moles HCl = 0.400 x 0.0044 L = 0.00176
CH3COO- + H+ %26gt;%26gt; CH3COOH
moles acid = 0.00586 + 0.00176 = 0.00762
moles acetate = 0.0106 - 0.00176 = 0.00884
total volume = 165 + 4.4 = 169.4 mL = 0.169 L
concentration acid = 0.00762 / 0.169 = 0.0450 M
concentration acetate = 0.00884 / 0.169 = 0.0523 M
pH = 4.74 + log 0.0523 / 0.0450 = 4.81
A beaker with 200 mL of an acetic acid buffer with a pH of 5.00 is sitting on a benchtop.?
A beaker with 200 mL of an acetic acid buffer with a pH of 5.00 is sitting on a bench top. The total molarity of acid and conjugate base in this buffer is 0.100 M. A student adds 6.70 mL of a 0.280M HCl solution to the beaker. How much will the pH change? The pKa of acetic acid is 4.760.
Express your answer numerically to three decimal places. Use a minus (-) sign if the pH has decreased.
Ugh. I can't figure this dude out!A beaker with 200 mL of an acetic acid buffer with a pH of 5.00 is sitting on a benchtop.?
pH = pKa + log [acetate]/ [acetic acid]
5.00 = 4.760 + log [acetate]/ [acetic acid]
5.00 - 4.760=0.24
10^0.24 =1.74 = [acetate]/ [acetic acid]
[acetate] + [acetic acid ]= 0.100
[acetate] = 0.100 -[acetic acid]
1.74 = 0.100 - [acetic acid]/ [acetic acid]
1.74 [acetic acid] = 0.100 - [acetic acid]
2.74 [acetic acid]= 0.100
[acetic acid ]=0.0365 M
[acetate]= 0.100 - 0.0365 =0.0635 M
moles acetic acid = 0.0365 M x 0.200 L=0.00730
moles acetate = 0.0635 M x 0.200 L=0.0127
moles HCl added = 0.280 M x 0.00670 L=0.00188
CH3COO- + H+ = CH3COOH
moles acetic acid = 0.00730 + 0.00188 =0.00918
moles acetate = 0.0127 - 0.00188=0.0108
total volume = 200 + 6.70 = 206.70 mL =%26gt; 0.2067 L
[acetic acid ]= 0.00918/ 0.2067 =0.0444 M
[acetate]= 0.0108 / 0.2067 =0.0522
pH = 4.760 + log 0.0522/ 0.0444 =4.832
4.832 - 5.00 = - 0.168How to clean military surplus wool blankets web hosting forum
Express your answer numerically to three decimal places. Use a minus (-) sign if the pH has decreased.
Ugh. I can't figure this dude out!A beaker with 200 mL of an acetic acid buffer with a pH of 5.00 is sitting on a benchtop.?
pH = pKa + log [acetate]/ [acetic acid]
5.00 = 4.760 + log [acetate]/ [acetic acid]
5.00 - 4.760=0.24
10^0.24 =1.74 = [acetate]/ [acetic acid]
[acetate] + [acetic acid ]= 0.100
[acetate] = 0.100 -[acetic acid]
1.74 = 0.100 - [acetic acid]/ [acetic acid]
1.74 [acetic acid] = 0.100 - [acetic acid]
2.74 [acetic acid]= 0.100
[acetic acid ]=0.0365 M
[acetate]= 0.100 - 0.0365 =0.0635 M
moles acetic acid = 0.0365 M x 0.200 L=0.00730
moles acetate = 0.0635 M x 0.200 L=0.0127
moles HCl added = 0.280 M x 0.00670 L=0.00188
CH3COO- + H+ = CH3COOH
moles acetic acid = 0.00730 + 0.00188 =0.00918
moles acetate = 0.0127 - 0.00188=0.0108
total volume = 200 + 6.70 = 206.70 mL =%26gt; 0.2067 L
[acetic acid ]= 0.00918/ 0.2067 =0.0444 M
[acetate]= 0.0108 / 0.2067 =0.0522
pH = 4.760 + log 0.0522/ 0.0444 =4.832
4.832 - 5.00 = - 0.168
Ammonia level in tank?
Hello. I have a 20 gallon tank I am cycling with a small school of barbs (3). I just ended the 1st week, and my ammonia levels are still sky high. At fist I was doing 25% water changes every 2 days or so (and using ammo lock), but yesterday I did a 75% change, then today I have preformed 3, 25% WC. And still, ammonia levels have not dropped.
I have been online reading about ammo lock, and get conflicting opinions about it (of course, I probably will here too =]. Just wondering if it messes with the process of the bio filter breaking down the ammonia? And, am I going over board with the water changes (ammonia levels read at 8ppm on the liquid API freshwater master test kit, and I cannot get the levels to come down with all the water changes.). PH is 6.6.
The fish seem alright.They are active and really want me to feed them (they only are fed every other day, due to the high ammonia levels. Should I offer more or less feeding times?). I think 1 barb might be stressed though. He seems a little too active in the tank, and making a repeated (number) 8 shape while swimming. And he seems to be hanging out more in the bubbles. Not sure if it is the ammonia bothering him (I thought ammo lock detoxified the water?) or if he just likes the bubbles. (They all play in them regularly). No flickering, sometimes I notice that they want to swim by the filter and rub against the tube the water is sucked up in. The other 2 barbs are down in the vegetation (artificial) doing their thing.
Any advice?
I am familiar with the process of cycling a tank...just unsure of the constant 8ppm reading I am getting with constant water changes. I have never had such a high reading for so long. I am also using stress zyme (and stress coat), but unsure how to use stress zyme with so many water changes.Ammonia level in tank?
If your test kit is old, or you are unsure if you are testing correctly, do a sample test just using the water out of your tap. A note about this: if your local water municipality uses chloramine instead of chlorine, a small amount of ammonia may be present in your tap water. This is because chloramine is chlorine/ammonia mix that doesn't evaporate like chlorine does.
If your test is working properly then it's time to ramp up the water changes. Large waterchanges are fine (although it's a pain in the butt), and won't harm your fish, nor remove bacteria since they prefer to live in the filter. Do a decent sized one and test your tank again shortly after to see what kind of readings you get. Yes a small number of fish can raise ammonia pretty quick...freshwater fish are always having to pump water out of their system (due to osmosis), and they release waste ammonia while doing so. Solid waste/ uneaten food also releases ammonia...so it's fine to not feed them daily.
Ammo-lock shouldn't, in theory, prevent your tank from cycling. It's just changing the ammonia structure into a slightly less toxic form that does exist in nature. It will not change your test results (because Ammonia testing kits register both kinds). What is less clear is how long a ';dose'; of ammo-lock works.
I'd ditch the stress coat stuff if that's the stuff with aloe in it. Aloe might be fine for their scales/slime coat, but what about their gills?
Have any friends with a (healthy) cycled tank that can give you some of their filter media or part of their filters sponge? That's the best way to jump start a cycle because it will be full of the bacteria you need.
Edit:
More than most people need to know but:
Fish store and release ';ammonia'; as NH4+. When NH4+ reacts with water it can lose it's extra H+, converting it to the more toxic NH3. In tank with low pH this conversion occurs less, and in tanks with high pH this conversion occurs more. In other words, ';ammonia'; is more toxic in tanks with high pH. This is why I question how long ';ammo-locking'; products actually work, why they shouldn't effect your bacterial colony, and why almost no one bothers making NH3 only tests!Ammonia level in tank?
- Drop the stress zyme in the filter.
- Do 90% water changes once/twice a day (depending on the need) till the ammonia lowers. Make no mistake this is not a bad thing in this situation. You have no cycle. The fastest way to reduce ammonia is to do a large water change. It directly removes ammonia and dilutes any left over ammonia. So it's a sure winner over products like Ammo Lock (which I have never used). Actually try to take some water in a separate container with some conditioner [not tank water]. Take your fish and place them in this container. Drain ALL the water in the tank till there's just a little left over the gravel (very thin layer). Then refill.
- Check your filter. Once, a pet shop insisted they set up a filter for me. They forgot to remove the bacteria growing film from it's plastic. T.T
- Try to bring over bacteria from a pet shop. You want to try to get an effect similar to this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9E21dIdJL鈥?/a> basically bring over bacteria from other established tanks. These bacteria are way better than most commercial bacteria in bottles. Half the time, bottled commercial bacteria are already dead. Who knows how long they've been sitting on that shelf....
Lan, just wanted your opinion on something. He's using commercial bacteria... The commercial bacteria is bottled in a non-toxic form of ammonia, so if he uses them, wouldn't the ammonia readings will be higher than if he hadn't used them?? I think that's why his readings are at 8 ppm, because you are right... fish begin to die at 6 ppm onwards. I'm just curious xD
although i use another ammonia product, im almost positive ammo lock works the same way.... this may get a tad confusing, and im sorry in advance, but ill try to make it simple....
when you test your water for ammonia, nearly ALL tests measure whats called TAN or ';total ammonia nitrogen';. This is a measurement of BOTH harmful, toxic ammonia as well as the harmless ammonia that is being used to keep the bio filter going. when using an ammonia remover/detoxifier, it will remove the toxic ';free ammonia';, leaving behind the harmless ammonia which your bio filter is useing.
When using one of these products, if you dont have a test that measures ONLY the toxic ';free ammonia';, you will get a false positive. its telling you that yes, there is ammonia present, but it doesnt tell you how much bad stuff is in there... so when using these products, your API ammonia test becomes useless. In order to get an accurate reading, you will need a test that ONLY measures the bad stuff. The link below is to an ammonia monitor. I use it and it will continuously monitor the ammount of ';free ammonia'; for up to one year. I bought mine at petsmart and have seen them at petco. theyre only about 5 to 7 bucks. if you read ANY ammonia on your ammonia monitor, then you will need to do a water change... if you use ammo lock, there really is no way to get an accurate reading of your ammonia levles without the ammonia monitor.
good luck, hope this wasnt too confusing, i know it can be very confusing, so... if you have any questions at all, feel free to email me %26amp; i can try my best to answer any questions you may have about it... i did a ton of research on it a while ago when i started using ammonia removers. hope i helped :)
EDIT:
***dont listen to this quote from someone above me, it is inaccurate.
';Ammo-lock will not change your test results (because Ammonia testing kits register both kinds)';.
***Thats exactly the problem. its measureing BOTH kinds... you need a test that only measures the bad stuff, because who cares if the harmless stuff is present in the water, acutally its a good thing, it means the harmless ammonia in the water is being used to start the bio filter. the test does not know that the bad ammonia has been detoxified. all the test is pretty much saying is that: yes, there is ammonia in your water. if you decide to get the ammonia monitor i reccomended, you wont have to test your ammonia any more, just look at the monitor, but you WILL need to still test nitrites and nitrates daily. change your water ONLY when the ammonia monitor slightly changes color or when you read ANY nitrites or your nitrates are above 20... then do a large water change. when you read ammonia-0 (on the monitor). nitrites-0. and nitrates- more than 0 and less than 20... when you get those reading for 7 days straight, your tank is fully cycled
Theres a lot of good info here, thats for sure. I'm certainly no expert, but what I do is about every week to 10 days I vacuum the gravel and do a partial water change of about 20%. Thats about how much water I lose when I do the vacuuming so it works out good. I add water back to the top and add appropriate chemicals consistent to what the directions tell me for the amount of water I added. (water conditioner, bacteria booster, ammonia treatment, salt). I've had my tank (80 gal) for a good while now and honestly the only thing I monitor anymore is ammonia and nitrites. If the ammonia registers, I add ammonia treatment. Nitrites, ya change water. It's also good to buy some PH up and PH down. But after monitoring mine for a long time, frankly I never have to adjust the PH. Maybe it's just my water from my city. As far as feeding, I do a good feed in the morning(flake and brine shrimp and the occasional krill for the puffers) and in the evening I drop in a capsule of blood worms and a SMALL amount of flake. The water stays clear this way for me. Everyones tank seems to be different, but I tell you this because this is what works for me. Good luck and enjoy.
ps- one more thing I noticed when I read back through was about your water changes. You should NOT do a water change that close between another water change. Every 2 days is very bad for your fish. If your doing this just for high ammonia, go buy ammonia treatment. Get the bacteria booster and you should be good
I read about 1 paragraph of that novel and rolled my eyes. I don't need to read the re.st as you're already not cycling properly. Ammo Lock defeats the purpose and hinders cycling as its bacteria dependent and Ammo Lock is a chemical remover.
The old school cycling you're doing takes about 3 weeks or so up to 5 weeks to work so you're not going to see anything yet but spikes.
You're just torturing fish.
If you require an extrapolation or explanation I accept messages.
You have a problem with your test kit.
I say this for 2 reasons, first 8ppm will kill any fish, pretty much instantly. It can even kill the ammonia eating bacteria if it's that high. And second, if you do a 75% water change, then 75% of the ammonia is poured down the drain, it's gone, so the reading in the tank must drop.
So double check your ammonia level, as you say the fish are acting fine, so they probably are. 3 small barbs in a 20gal will not produce much ammonia, and if you have been changing some water I would expect the true reading to be under 0.5
Ian
I have been online reading about ammo lock, and get conflicting opinions about it (of course, I probably will here too =]. Just wondering if it messes with the process of the bio filter breaking down the ammonia? And, am I going over board with the water changes (ammonia levels read at 8ppm on the liquid API freshwater master test kit, and I cannot get the levels to come down with all the water changes.). PH is 6.6.
The fish seem alright.They are active and really want me to feed them (they only are fed every other day, due to the high ammonia levels. Should I offer more or less feeding times?). I think 1 barb might be stressed though. He seems a little too active in the tank, and making a repeated (number) 8 shape while swimming. And he seems to be hanging out more in the bubbles. Not sure if it is the ammonia bothering him (I thought ammo lock detoxified the water?) or if he just likes the bubbles. (They all play in them regularly). No flickering, sometimes I notice that they want to swim by the filter and rub against the tube the water is sucked up in. The other 2 barbs are down in the vegetation (artificial) doing their thing.
Any advice?
I am familiar with the process of cycling a tank...just unsure of the constant 8ppm reading I am getting with constant water changes. I have never had such a high reading for so long. I am also using stress zyme (and stress coat), but unsure how to use stress zyme with so many water changes.Ammonia level in tank?
If your test kit is old, or you are unsure if you are testing correctly, do a sample test just using the water out of your tap. A note about this: if your local water municipality uses chloramine instead of chlorine, a small amount of ammonia may be present in your tap water. This is because chloramine is chlorine/ammonia mix that doesn't evaporate like chlorine does.
If your test is working properly then it's time to ramp up the water changes. Large waterchanges are fine (although it's a pain in the butt), and won't harm your fish, nor remove bacteria since they prefer to live in the filter. Do a decent sized one and test your tank again shortly after to see what kind of readings you get. Yes a small number of fish can raise ammonia pretty quick...freshwater fish are always having to pump water out of their system (due to osmosis), and they release waste ammonia while doing so. Solid waste/ uneaten food also releases ammonia...so it's fine to not feed them daily.
Ammo-lock shouldn't, in theory, prevent your tank from cycling. It's just changing the ammonia structure into a slightly less toxic form that does exist in nature. It will not change your test results (because Ammonia testing kits register both kinds). What is less clear is how long a ';dose'; of ammo-lock works.
I'd ditch the stress coat stuff if that's the stuff with aloe in it. Aloe might be fine for their scales/slime coat, but what about their gills?
Have any friends with a (healthy) cycled tank that can give you some of their filter media or part of their filters sponge? That's the best way to jump start a cycle because it will be full of the bacteria you need.
Edit:
More than most people need to know but:
Fish store and release ';ammonia'; as NH4+. When NH4+ reacts with water it can lose it's extra H+, converting it to the more toxic NH3. In tank with low pH this conversion occurs less, and in tanks with high pH this conversion occurs more. In other words, ';ammonia'; is more toxic in tanks with high pH. This is why I question how long ';ammo-locking'; products actually work, why they shouldn't effect your bacterial colony, and why almost no one bothers making NH3 only tests!Ammonia level in tank?
- Drop the stress zyme in the filter.
- Do 90% water changes once/twice a day (depending on the need) till the ammonia lowers. Make no mistake this is not a bad thing in this situation. You have no cycle. The fastest way to reduce ammonia is to do a large water change. It directly removes ammonia and dilutes any left over ammonia. So it's a sure winner over products like Ammo Lock (which I have never used). Actually try to take some water in a separate container with some conditioner [not tank water]. Take your fish and place them in this container. Drain ALL the water in the tank till there's just a little left over the gravel (very thin layer). Then refill.
- Check your filter. Once, a pet shop insisted they set up a filter for me. They forgot to remove the bacteria growing film from it's plastic. T.T
- Try to bring over bacteria from a pet shop. You want to try to get an effect similar to this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9E21dIdJL鈥?/a> basically bring over bacteria from other established tanks. These bacteria are way better than most commercial bacteria in bottles. Half the time, bottled commercial bacteria are already dead. Who knows how long they've been sitting on that shelf....
Lan, just wanted your opinion on something. He's using commercial bacteria... The commercial bacteria is bottled in a non-toxic form of ammonia, so if he uses them, wouldn't the ammonia readings will be higher than if he hadn't used them?? I think that's why his readings are at 8 ppm, because you are right... fish begin to die at 6 ppm onwards. I'm just curious xD
although i use another ammonia product, im almost positive ammo lock works the same way.... this may get a tad confusing, and im sorry in advance, but ill try to make it simple....
when you test your water for ammonia, nearly ALL tests measure whats called TAN or ';total ammonia nitrogen';. This is a measurement of BOTH harmful, toxic ammonia as well as the harmless ammonia that is being used to keep the bio filter going. when using an ammonia remover/detoxifier, it will remove the toxic ';free ammonia';, leaving behind the harmless ammonia which your bio filter is useing.
When using one of these products, if you dont have a test that measures ONLY the toxic ';free ammonia';, you will get a false positive. its telling you that yes, there is ammonia present, but it doesnt tell you how much bad stuff is in there... so when using these products, your API ammonia test becomes useless. In order to get an accurate reading, you will need a test that ONLY measures the bad stuff. The link below is to an ammonia monitor. I use it and it will continuously monitor the ammount of ';free ammonia'; for up to one year. I bought mine at petsmart and have seen them at petco. theyre only about 5 to 7 bucks. if you read ANY ammonia on your ammonia monitor, then you will need to do a water change... if you use ammo lock, there really is no way to get an accurate reading of your ammonia levles without the ammonia monitor.
good luck, hope this wasnt too confusing, i know it can be very confusing, so... if you have any questions at all, feel free to email me %26amp; i can try my best to answer any questions you may have about it... i did a ton of research on it a while ago when i started using ammonia removers. hope i helped :)
EDIT:
***dont listen to this quote from someone above me, it is inaccurate.
';Ammo-lock will not change your test results (because Ammonia testing kits register both kinds)';.
***Thats exactly the problem. its measureing BOTH kinds... you need a test that only measures the bad stuff, because who cares if the harmless stuff is present in the water, acutally its a good thing, it means the harmless ammonia in the water is being used to start the bio filter. the test does not know that the bad ammonia has been detoxified. all the test is pretty much saying is that: yes, there is ammonia in your water. if you decide to get the ammonia monitor i reccomended, you wont have to test your ammonia any more, just look at the monitor, but you WILL need to still test nitrites and nitrates daily. change your water ONLY when the ammonia monitor slightly changes color or when you read ANY nitrites or your nitrates are above 20... then do a large water change. when you read ammonia-0 (on the monitor). nitrites-0. and nitrates- more than 0 and less than 20... when you get those reading for 7 days straight, your tank is fully cycled
Theres a lot of good info here, thats for sure. I'm certainly no expert, but what I do is about every week to 10 days I vacuum the gravel and do a partial water change of about 20%. Thats about how much water I lose when I do the vacuuming so it works out good. I add water back to the top and add appropriate chemicals consistent to what the directions tell me for the amount of water I added. (water conditioner, bacteria booster, ammonia treatment, salt). I've had my tank (80 gal) for a good while now and honestly the only thing I monitor anymore is ammonia and nitrites. If the ammonia registers, I add ammonia treatment. Nitrites, ya change water. It's also good to buy some PH up and PH down. But after monitoring mine for a long time, frankly I never have to adjust the PH. Maybe it's just my water from my city. As far as feeding, I do a good feed in the morning(flake and brine shrimp and the occasional krill for the puffers) and in the evening I drop in a capsule of blood worms and a SMALL amount of flake. The water stays clear this way for me. Everyones tank seems to be different, but I tell you this because this is what works for me. Good luck and enjoy.
ps- one more thing I noticed when I read back through was about your water changes. You should NOT do a water change that close between another water change. Every 2 days is very bad for your fish. If your doing this just for high ammonia, go buy ammonia treatment. Get the bacteria booster and you should be good
I read about 1 paragraph of that novel and rolled my eyes. I don't need to read the re.st as you're already not cycling properly. Ammo Lock defeats the purpose and hinders cycling as its bacteria dependent and Ammo Lock is a chemical remover.
The old school cycling you're doing takes about 3 weeks or so up to 5 weeks to work so you're not going to see anything yet but spikes.
You're just torturing fish.
If you require an extrapolation or explanation I accept messages.
You have a problem with your test kit.
I say this for 2 reasons, first 8ppm will kill any fish, pretty much instantly. It can even kill the ammonia eating bacteria if it's that high. And second, if you do a 75% water change, then 75% of the ammonia is poured down the drain, it's gone, so the reading in the tank must drop.
So double check your ammonia level, as you say the fish are acting fine, so they probably are. 3 small barbs in a 20gal will not produce much ammonia, and if you have been changing some water I would expect the true reading to be under 0.5
Ian
Chem help please ::: Calculate the pH of a buffer that is 0.125 M in NaHCO3 and 0.105 in Na2CO3.?
please show me the steps and how you got to the answer thank you so much!!!!
also.... 2) A beaker with 155 ml of an acetic acid buffer with a pH of 5.00 is sitting on a benchtop. The total molarity of acid and conjugate base in this buffer is 0.1M . A student adds 8.90 ml of a 0.340 M HCl solution to the beaker. How much will the pH change? The pKa of acetic acid is 4.76.
10 points to best answer!!!! thanks
even if you only help with one that is a great help!!!Chem help please ::: Calculate the pH of a buffer that is 0.125 M in NaHCO3 and 0.105 in Na2CO3.?
(HCO3)-1 --%26gt; H+ %26amp; (CO3)-2
[0.125M] ....... [H+] .....[0.105M]
Ka for (HCO3)-1 from the back of my book: 5.6 e-11
5.6e-11 = [H+] [0.105] / [0.125]
[H+] = 6.67e-11
pH+ = 1.0176
your answer = 1.02 , (only 2 sig figs in the Ka)
-------------------
also.... 2)
using ';The total molarity of acid and conjugate base in this buffer is 0.1M'; %26amp; ';buffer with a pH of 5.00';
H C2H3O2 --%26gt; H+ %26amp; (C2H3O2)-1
...[0.1 - X] .........[1.0e-5] [X]
using the ';pKa = 4.76'; gives the Ka for acetic acid = 1.74 e-5
which is close to what most people use as the Ka
1.74 e-5 = [1.0e-5] [X] / [0.1 - X]
(1.74 e-5) (0.1 - X) = [1.0e-5] [X]
1.74e-6 - 1.74e-5 X = 1.0e-5 X
1.76e-6 = 2.74e-5 X
[C2H3O2] = X = 0.0642 Molar
%26amp; so [H C2H3O2] = [0.10 - X] = 0.0358 Molar
------------------
...........H C2H3O2 --%26gt; H+ %26amp; (C2H3O2)-1
initial [0.0358M] ........[H+]......[0.0642M] @ 0.155 litres
gives
0.005549 moles........[H+]......0.009951 moles
--------------------------------------?br>
but when you add 0.00890 Litres of 0.340mol/Litre HCl, then youi are adding 0.003026 moles of H+'s....
which shifts the reaction to the left, increasing the HC2H3O2 by 0.003026 moles, %26amp; decreasing the (C2H3O2)-1 by the same 0.003026 moles
--------------
...................H C2H3O2 --%26gt; H+ %26amp; (C2H3O2)-1
initial : 0.005549 mols.....[H+]......0.009951 mols
change:+0.003026 mols.................-0.003026mols
______________________________________?br>
final eq : 0.008575 mol .......[H+] .....0.006925 mols
--------------------------
I am going to intentially make a mistake that will still give the same right answer. I won't divide the numerator's 0.006925 mols by the new total volume, %26amp; I won't divide the denominator's 0.008575 mol by the new total volume to get the new molarities. since the work cancels itself out... So:
1.74 e-5 = [H+] [0.006925] / [0.008575]
[H+] = 2.15 e-5
pH+ = 4.6666
Your answer is possibly: pH+ = 4.67
(I am assuming that the buffer had more sig figs than ';0.1M';)
---------------
but, interpret the phrase: ';How much will the pH change? ';
might mean that your answer should be phrased:
By adding the 8.90 ml of a 0.340 M HCl, the buffer changes from a pH+ = 5.00 to a pH+ of 4.67.... ie. ';it decreases in pH+ by 0.03 pH+ units';
also.... 2) A beaker with 155 ml of an acetic acid buffer with a pH of 5.00 is sitting on a benchtop. The total molarity of acid and conjugate base in this buffer is 0.1M . A student adds 8.90 ml of a 0.340 M HCl solution to the beaker. How much will the pH change? The pKa of acetic acid is 4.76.
10 points to best answer!!!! thanks
even if you only help with one that is a great help!!!Chem help please ::: Calculate the pH of a buffer that is 0.125 M in NaHCO3 and 0.105 in Na2CO3.?
(HCO3)-1 --%26gt; H+ %26amp; (CO3)-2
[0.125M] ....... [H+] .....[0.105M]
Ka for (HCO3)-1 from the back of my book: 5.6 e-11
5.6e-11 = [H+] [0.105] / [0.125]
[H+] = 6.67e-11
pH+ = 1.0176
your answer = 1.02 , (only 2 sig figs in the Ka)
-------------------
also.... 2)
using ';The total molarity of acid and conjugate base in this buffer is 0.1M'; %26amp; ';buffer with a pH of 5.00';
H C2H3O2 --%26gt; H+ %26amp; (C2H3O2)-1
...[0.1 - X] .........[1.0e-5] [X]
using the ';pKa = 4.76'; gives the Ka for acetic acid = 1.74 e-5
which is close to what most people use as the Ka
1.74 e-5 = [1.0e-5] [X] / [0.1 - X]
(1.74 e-5) (0.1 - X) = [1.0e-5] [X]
1.74e-6 - 1.74e-5 X = 1.0e-5 X
1.76e-6 = 2.74e-5 X
[C2H3O2] = X = 0.0642 Molar
%26amp; so [H C2H3O2] = [0.10 - X] = 0.0358 Molar
------------------
...........H C2H3O2 --%26gt; H+ %26amp; (C2H3O2)-1
initial [0.0358M] ........[H+]......[0.0642M] @ 0.155 litres
gives
0.005549 moles........[H+]......0.009951 moles
--------------------------------------?br>
but when you add 0.00890 Litres of 0.340mol/Litre HCl, then youi are adding 0.003026 moles of H+'s....
which shifts the reaction to the left, increasing the HC2H3O2 by 0.003026 moles, %26amp; decreasing the (C2H3O2)-1 by the same 0.003026 moles
--------------
...................H C2H3O2 --%26gt; H+ %26amp; (C2H3O2)-1
initial : 0.005549 mols.....[H+]......0.009951 mols
change:+0.003026 mols.................-0.003026mols
______________________________________?br>
final eq : 0.008575 mol .......[H+] .....0.006925 mols
--------------------------
I am going to intentially make a mistake that will still give the same right answer. I won't divide the numerator's 0.006925 mols by the new total volume, %26amp; I won't divide the denominator's 0.008575 mol by the new total volume to get the new molarities. since the work cancels itself out... So:
1.74 e-5 = [H+] [0.006925] / [0.008575]
[H+] = 2.15 e-5
pH+ = 4.6666
Your answer is possibly: pH+ = 4.67
(I am assuming that the buffer had more sig figs than ';0.1M';)
---------------
but, interpret the phrase: ';How much will the pH change? ';
might mean that your answer should be phrased:
By adding the 8.90 ml of a 0.340 M HCl, the buffer changes from a pH+ = 5.00 to a pH+ of 4.67.... ie. ';it decreases in pH+ by 0.03 pH+ units';
Please help - questions on pH's and titrations.?
1) I don't understand why the pH of water is different at different temperatures even if it is always neutral??? argh I really dont understand this. I know H2O will dissociate to give equal amounts of H+ and OH- ions but???
2) How do you tell which acids are stronger? eg I know the stronger the acid the more it dissociates but why is for example HCl a stronger base than CH3COOH?
3) Why when doing a titration does the pH change so suddenly?
I would be grateful if anyone could help me with any of these three. I have been revising for my exam and these are 3 things I came across and the text book doesn't explain too well... Thankyou :)Please help - questions on pH's and titrations.?
1) [H+]=[OH-]. The amounts of H+ and OH- ions are the same at any temprature.
2) HCl is a strong acid as it dissociates fully in solution. Ethanoic acid slightly dissociates, so is weak.
3) This is the equivalence point. It is here that all the acid or base is neutralised.
2) How do you tell which acids are stronger? eg I know the stronger the acid the more it dissociates but why is for example HCl a stronger base than CH3COOH?
3) Why when doing a titration does the pH change so suddenly?
I would be grateful if anyone could help me with any of these three. I have been revising for my exam and these are 3 things I came across and the text book doesn't explain too well... Thankyou :)Please help - questions on pH's and titrations.?
1) [H+]=[OH-]. The amounts of H+ and OH- ions are the same at any temprature.
2) HCl is a strong acid as it dissociates fully in solution. Ethanoic acid slightly dissociates, so is weak.
3) This is the equivalence point. It is here that all the acid or base is neutralised.
Someone good with practicals would get this!?
i'm doing a bio project, testing the effect of pH on immoblized and non-immoblized enzymes, using invertase enzyme and sucrose solution. BUT the only way to test for glucose is through a diabetes strip thing, however when changing pH i will get different colours( ie pH1= red...etc) and when i pour this pH 1 solution into the enzyme/sucrose solution it will change colour. After that i would put the strip inside the test tube, but i will not see the colour change of the strip with this different colour (made by the pH) and i would not be able to tell how much glucose there is in there!!! HELPPP, HOW DO I FIX THIS PROBLEM!!
thanks for your help, sorry about the explanation!Someone good with practicals would get this!?
add the acidic ph, take the new reading, then neutralize it with water.
thanks for your help, sorry about the explanation!Someone good with practicals would get this!?
add the acidic ph, take the new reading, then neutralize it with water.
What is the PH of a solution that contains 0.15M hc2h3o4 and 0.25 M c2h3o2? use Ka= 1.8 X 10-5?
what is the PH of a solution that contains 0.15M hc2h3o4 and 0.25 M c2h3o2? use Ka= 1.8 X 10-5.....................i know how to do this part.... Ph is 3.3
i need to do second part: by how much will the Ph change if 0.025 mol of HCL is added to 1.00 L of the buffer in problem (i have stated up_What is the PH of a solution that contains 0.15M hc2h3o4 and 0.25 M c2h3o2? use Ka= 1.8 X 10-5?
CH3COO- + H+ %26gt;%26gt; CH3COOH
moles acetate = 0.25 - 0.025 =0.225
[CH3COO-]= 0.225 / 1.00 L= 0.225
Moles acetic acid = 0.15 + 0.025=0.175
[CH3COOH]= 0.175 / 1.00L = 0.175
pKa = 4.7
pH = pKa + log [CH3COO-]/ [CH3COOH]
pH = 4.7 + log 0.225 / 0.175=4.8
about the first question :
pH = 4.7 + log 0.25/ 0.15= 4.9wavy hair How do I unclump my comforter
i need to do second part: by how much will the Ph change if 0.025 mol of HCL is added to 1.00 L of the buffer in problem (i have stated up_What is the PH of a solution that contains 0.15M hc2h3o4 and 0.25 M c2h3o2? use Ka= 1.8 X 10-5?
CH3COO- + H+ %26gt;%26gt; CH3COOH
moles acetate = 0.25 - 0.025 =0.225
[CH3COO-]= 0.225 / 1.00 L= 0.225
Moles acetic acid = 0.15 + 0.025=0.175
[CH3COOH]= 0.175 / 1.00L = 0.175
pKa = 4.7
pH = pKa + log [CH3COO-]/ [CH3COOH]
pH = 4.7 + log 0.225 / 0.175=4.8
about the first question :
pH = 4.7 + log 0.25/ 0.15= 4.9
What is the pH of final solution?
A beaker with 185 mL of an acetic acid buffer with a pH of 5.00 is sitting on a benchtop. The total molarity of acid and conjugate base in this buffer is 0.100 M . A student adds 7.20 mL of a 0.300 M HCl solution to the beaker. How much will the pH change? The pKa of acetic acid is 4.760.
Express your answer numerically to two decimal places. Use a minus (-) sign if the pH has decreased.What is the pH of final solution?
First use the Henderson-Hasselbalch equation to calculate the concentrations of acetic acid and acetate in the initial buffer:
pH = pKa + log [acetate]/[acetic acid]
5.00 = 4.76 + log [acetate]/[acetic acid]
log [acetate]/[acetic acid] = 0.24
[acetate]/[acetic acid] = 1.74
[acetate] = 1.74 [acetic acid] **
Now, you know that [acetic acid] + [acetate] = 0.100 M. It's often easier to work in just moles rather than in actual molar concentrations, so multiplying the total concentration by the volume of the buffer solution, you have:
acetic acid + acetate = 0.0185 moles
Substituting the starred equation into the second one gives:
acetic acid + 1.74 acetic acid = 0.0185
2.74 acetic acid = 0.0185
moles acetic acid = 6.75 X 10^-3 moles and then moles acetate = 0.0185 - 6.75 X 10^-3 = 0.01175 moles.
Now, if you add 7.20 mL of 0.300 M HCl, you have added 2.16 X 10^-3 moles of HCl.
When HCl is added to a buffer, the moles of acetate will decrease by exactly the amount of HCl added, and the moles of acetic acid will increase by that same amount. So, after the HCl addition,
moles acetic acid = 6.75 X 10^-3 + 2.16 X 10^-3 = 8.91 X 10^-3 moles
moles of acetate = 0.01175 - 2.16 X 10^-3 = 9.59 X 10^-3 moles.
Now, use the H-H equation to calculate the final pH:
pH = 4.760 + log 9.59X 10^-3 / 8.91 X 10^-3 = 4.79.
So, the pH dropped by 0.21 pH units.
Express your answer numerically to two decimal places. Use a minus (-) sign if the pH has decreased.What is the pH of final solution?
First use the Henderson-Hasselbalch equation to calculate the concentrations of acetic acid and acetate in the initial buffer:
pH = pKa + log [acetate]/[acetic acid]
5.00 = 4.76 + log [acetate]/[acetic acid]
log [acetate]/[acetic acid] = 0.24
[acetate]/[acetic acid] = 1.74
[acetate] = 1.74 [acetic acid] **
Now, you know that [acetic acid] + [acetate] = 0.100 M. It's often easier to work in just moles rather than in actual molar concentrations, so multiplying the total concentration by the volume of the buffer solution, you have:
acetic acid + acetate = 0.0185 moles
Substituting the starred equation into the second one gives:
acetic acid + 1.74 acetic acid = 0.0185
2.74 acetic acid = 0.0185
moles acetic acid = 6.75 X 10^-3 moles and then moles acetate = 0.0185 - 6.75 X 10^-3 = 0.01175 moles.
Now, if you add 7.20 mL of 0.300 M HCl, you have added 2.16 X 10^-3 moles of HCl.
When HCl is added to a buffer, the moles of acetate will decrease by exactly the amount of HCl added, and the moles of acetic acid will increase by that same amount. So, after the HCl addition,
moles acetic acid = 6.75 X 10^-3 + 2.16 X 10^-3 = 8.91 X 10^-3 moles
moles of acetate = 0.01175 - 2.16 X 10^-3 = 9.59 X 10^-3 moles.
Now, use the H-H equation to calculate the final pH:
pH = 4.760 + log 9.59X 10^-3 / 8.91 X 10^-3 = 4.79.
So, the pH dropped by 0.21 pH units.
Chemistry Help with Adding a Strong Acid to a Buffer-trying to find delta pH.?
Okay so here is the problem:
A beaker with 155 mL of an acetic acid buffer with a pH of 5.00 is sitting on a benchtop. The total molarity of acid and conjugate base in this buffer is 0.100 M. A student adds 9.00 mL of a 0.410 M HCl solution to the beaker. How much will the pH change? The pKa of acetic acid is 4.760. What is the delta pH? (change in pH).
What I initially thought--
H C2H3O2 --%26gt; H+ %26amp; (C2H3O2)-1
I .005549____________.009951
C +.00419 ____________-.00419
E .009739____________.005761
(btw I got .00419 by adding .009 and .410 then dividing by 1000)
then I used this formula:
1.74x10^-5= x(.005761/.009739)
x=[H+]= 2.94148x10^-5
-log(2.94148x10^-5)= 4.5313
therefore the pH=4.53
since they were asking for the change of pH I subtracted
5.00-4.53 = .4686
and apparently that is INCORRECT....
ssooo.....I dont know what I did wrong
PLEASE help me, and give step my step instructions as well
Because I'm totally lost now...Chemistry Help with Adding a Strong Acid to a Buffer-trying to find delta pH.?
Let the initial concentrations be a and b(of acid and conjugate base res.)
5 = 4.76 + log(b/a)
So b/a =1.738.
And b + a = 0.1
Solving the two, b = 0.0365 and a = 0.0635
milliMoles of acid = 0.0635*155 = 9.8425
milliMoles of conjugate base = 5.6575
On addition of .410*9 = 3.69 milliMoles HCl, the acid = 9.8425 + 3.69= 13.5325 and base = 5.6575 - 3.69 = 1.9675.
So the pH = 4.76 + log(1.9675/13.5325) = 4.76 - 0.8375
So change in pH is 5 - 4.76 + 0.8375 = 1.0775(approx.)
There might have been some calculation mistake please check the calculations.
A beaker with 155 mL of an acetic acid buffer with a pH of 5.00 is sitting on a benchtop. The total molarity of acid and conjugate base in this buffer is 0.100 M. A student adds 9.00 mL of a 0.410 M HCl solution to the beaker. How much will the pH change? The pKa of acetic acid is 4.760. What is the delta pH? (change in pH).
What I initially thought--
H C2H3O2 --%26gt; H+ %26amp; (C2H3O2)-1
I .005549____________.009951
C +.00419 ____________-.00419
E .009739____________.005761
(btw I got .00419 by adding .009 and .410 then dividing by 1000)
then I used this formula:
1.74x10^-5= x(.005761/.009739)
x=[H+]= 2.94148x10^-5
-log(2.94148x10^-5)= 4.5313
therefore the pH=4.53
since they were asking for the change of pH I subtracted
5.00-4.53 = .4686
and apparently that is INCORRECT....
ssooo.....I dont know what I did wrong
PLEASE help me, and give step my step instructions as well
Because I'm totally lost now...Chemistry Help with Adding a Strong Acid to a Buffer-trying to find delta pH.?
Let the initial concentrations be a and b(of acid and conjugate base res.)
5 = 4.76 + log(b/a)
So b/a =1.738.
And b + a = 0.1
Solving the two, b = 0.0365 and a = 0.0635
milliMoles of acid = 0.0635*155 = 9.8425
milliMoles of conjugate base = 5.6575
On addition of .410*9 = 3.69 milliMoles HCl, the acid = 9.8425 + 3.69= 13.5325 and base = 5.6575 - 3.69 = 1.9675.
So the pH = 4.76 + log(1.9675/13.5325) = 4.76 - 0.8375
So change in pH is 5 - 4.76 + 0.8375 = 1.0775(approx.)
There might have been some calculation mistake please check the calculations.
Is ocean ';acidification'; really caused by CO2?
The ocean contains 50 times as much CO2 as the air. The CO2 has increase about 1/3 for rounding purposes in the air. One third of the increased CO2 could be attributed to humans. Of that, 1/3 has went into the sea. 1/3 or 1/3 is 1/9 so approximately an amount equivalent to 1/9 of the atmospheric CO2 went into the ocean. The ocean contains 50 times as much CO2. That means the the increase in the ocean is roughly 1/9 of approximately 1/50 or we have changed the concentration of the CO2 in the ocean by about 1/450 The roughness of the approximation and rounding down of the 1/3 increase makes it seem reasonable to round that up to to 0.25% or 4 parts per thousand. Can you get significant acidification from a weak acid in buffer conditions with that small an increase or is it just alarmism as usual trying to lie and frighten people by suggesting we are acidifying the ocean. Carbonate ion changes with temperature and biological activity changes pH to as does volcanoes and other factors. We can easily figure how much a change of that magnitude would have on the pH. It isn't significant, that much is certain.
Before you respond with something like, ';It is more than the environment can handle'; or some similar nonsense, tale a deep breath and consider how stupid equating a 4 parts per thousand increase in CO2 to doom is. There used to be over 17 times as much CO2 in the air. I am a chemist so please don't distort science and claim that the concentration of the H+ ion which is what acid measures increased 35%. The change was from 8.2 to 8.1. That is very roughly a 10% change since pH as most high school science students know is logarithmic. Acid is below 7 and I think I have demonstrated with simple undeniable logic, except perhaps to an alarmist, that it is ignorant to attribute the acid change to CO2.Is ocean ';acidification'; really caused by CO2?
OK, your additional details redeemed at least the first part of your post. I was about to lay it on you for that. The rest of your playing with fractions really is irrelevant. Why not just start pulling out the gelatinous math and say the oceans are only absorbing .0001% of the total atmosphere?
In a basic solution like the ocean carbonic acid deprotonates almost completely into HCO3- (alpha 1 = .975, or 97.5% deprotonation). So while it is technically a weak acid, in the basic ocean it is pretty strong.
And, Mr. Chemist, you need to review your algebra. 10^.1 = 1.26, or a 26% increase.
Finally, no one is saying that the oceans are going to become like acid that will burn the flesh off of fish. The main problem, rather, is that increasing the acidity causes carbonate concentration [CO3-2] to fall below the levels of saturation, reducing the rates of calcification of many primary producers. It is this inhibition of phytoplankton's ability to produce aragonite that is the main cause for concern, not the pH itself--though this may have some nasty effects as well.
http://www.ipsl.jussieu.fr/~jomce/acidif
http://www.ucar.edu/communications/FinalIs ocean ';acidification'; really caused by CO2?
Oh. Yeah we could have kept going, but alright. Thanks for BA
Not at all. I think that toxic chemicals being released into the air (not carbon dioxide) and which then falls down it what's causing the acidic oceans (assuming they're truly more acid). It's the same thing that's causing acidic snow, rain, and water supplies that no one talks about!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MKjnLeFPB
I don't get the CO2 claim--they say even carbonated water is very weak in acid (and the ocean are definitely not that extreme). And another thing is that when the oceans and absorb CO2 it actually results in carbonated mineral deposits like calcium carbonate--which is an antacid! So that means the opposite happens!
';The Earth's oceans dissolve a major amount of carbon dioxide. The resulting carbonate anions bind to cations present in sea water such as Ca2+ and Mg2+ to form deposits of limestone and dolomite. Most carbon dioxide in the atmosphere eventually undergoes this fate: if all the carbonate rocks in the earth's crust were to be converted back in to carbon dioxide, the resulting carbon dioxide would weigh 40 times as much as the rest of the atmosphere.';
http://knowledgerush.com/kr/encyclopedia
Springs full of CO2 is actually healing and good for combatting acidity problems!
';Europeans also know that carbonated Vichy Water along with its high and balanced mineral content relieves those with extreme circulatory problems. Vichy waters have unique characteristics when consumed including the relief of stomach acidity, it's effect is like a natural Alka Seltzer. It is used for stomach ulcers, rheumatism and arthritis.';
http://www.vichysprings.com/vichy_baths/
That's why I reject the CO2 link to global warming--everything they claim ends up being the opposite of the truth!
';Ocean acidification'; is a misnomer. The ocean is not acidic and won't be any time soon.
http://wattsupwiththat.com/2009/01/31/oc
Ah yes. Here again we have the crank who knows more than the combined efforts of the worlds' foremost scientists.
With a back of the envelope calculation I can prove the science is bogus!
And hey, I got no alternate explanation for the observed phenomena, and I don't need to!
Cause' I can whip out my favorite bogeyman and claim the whole thing is a communist plot!
Do you have any idea how ridiculous this makes you look?
You may want to pull your punches because you're hitting yourself in the head.
http://www.ocean-acidification.net/
Before you respond with something like, ';It is more than the environment can handle'; or some similar nonsense, tale a deep breath and consider how stupid equating a 4 parts per thousand increase in CO2 to doom is. There used to be over 17 times as much CO2 in the air. I am a chemist so please don't distort science and claim that the concentration of the H+ ion which is what acid measures increased 35%. The change was from 8.2 to 8.1. That is very roughly a 10% change since pH as most high school science students know is logarithmic. Acid is below 7 and I think I have demonstrated with simple undeniable logic, except perhaps to an alarmist, that it is ignorant to attribute the acid change to CO2.Is ocean ';acidification'; really caused by CO2?
OK, your additional details redeemed at least the first part of your post. I was about to lay it on you for that. The rest of your playing with fractions really is irrelevant. Why not just start pulling out the gelatinous math and say the oceans are only absorbing .0001% of the total atmosphere?
In a basic solution like the ocean carbonic acid deprotonates almost completely into HCO3- (alpha 1 = .975, or 97.5% deprotonation). So while it is technically a weak acid, in the basic ocean it is pretty strong.
And, Mr. Chemist, you need to review your algebra. 10^.1 = 1.26, or a 26% increase.
Finally, no one is saying that the oceans are going to become like acid that will burn the flesh off of fish. The main problem, rather, is that increasing the acidity causes carbonate concentration [CO3-2] to fall below the levels of saturation, reducing the rates of calcification of many primary producers. It is this inhibition of phytoplankton's ability to produce aragonite that is the main cause for concern, not the pH itself--though this may have some nasty effects as well.
http://www.ipsl.jussieu.fr/~jomce/acidif
http://www.ucar.edu/communications/FinalIs ocean ';acidification'; really caused by CO2?
Oh. Yeah we could have kept going, but alright. Thanks for BA
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Not at all. I think that toxic chemicals being released into the air (not carbon dioxide) and which then falls down it what's causing the acidic oceans (assuming they're truly more acid). It's the same thing that's causing acidic snow, rain, and water supplies that no one talks about!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MKjnLeFPB
I don't get the CO2 claim--they say even carbonated water is very weak in acid (and the ocean are definitely not that extreme). And another thing is that when the oceans and absorb CO2 it actually results in carbonated mineral deposits like calcium carbonate--which is an antacid! So that means the opposite happens!
';The Earth's oceans dissolve a major amount of carbon dioxide. The resulting carbonate anions bind to cations present in sea water such as Ca2+ and Mg2+ to form deposits of limestone and dolomite. Most carbon dioxide in the atmosphere eventually undergoes this fate: if all the carbonate rocks in the earth's crust were to be converted back in to carbon dioxide, the resulting carbon dioxide would weigh 40 times as much as the rest of the atmosphere.';
http://knowledgerush.com/kr/encyclopedia
Springs full of CO2 is actually healing and good for combatting acidity problems!
';Europeans also know that carbonated Vichy Water along with its high and balanced mineral content relieves those with extreme circulatory problems. Vichy waters have unique characteristics when consumed including the relief of stomach acidity, it's effect is like a natural Alka Seltzer. It is used for stomach ulcers, rheumatism and arthritis.';
http://www.vichysprings.com/vichy_baths/
That's why I reject the CO2 link to global warming--everything they claim ends up being the opposite of the truth!
';Ocean acidification'; is a misnomer. The ocean is not acidic and won't be any time soon.
http://wattsupwiththat.com/2009/01/31/oc
Ah yes. Here again we have the crank who knows more than the combined efforts of the worlds' foremost scientists.
With a back of the envelope calculation I can prove the science is bogus!
And hey, I got no alternate explanation for the observed phenomena, and I don't need to!
Cause' I can whip out my favorite bogeyman and claim the whole thing is a communist plot!
Do you have any idea how ridiculous this makes you look?
You may want to pull your punches because you're hitting yourself in the head.
http://www.ocean-acidification.net/
Can you check if I am right with this pH question!?
This is pretty easy (I think) but I'm trying to get perfect on this assignment, so could you check my reasoning?
The range of blood pH that is considered normal in humans is 7.35 to 7.45. If a person's blood pH changes from 7.35 to 7.45, what is the change in hydronium ion concentration ([H30+])?
a) 1.3 * 10^-8 M
b) 9.2 * 10^-9 M
c) -9.2 * 10^-9 M
d) -1.3 * 10^-8 M
e) -2.3 * 10^-8 M
I get (c) and I found this by actually calculating the hydronium ion concentration at each end of the acceptable pH range and finding the difference. This was done by taking ten to the power of the negative value of the pH. Since an increase in pH results in a decrease in hydronium ion concentration, the answer should be negative. Can you check if I am right!?
ALSO, I tried it this way and it didn't work, and I'm curious why: how come it doesnt work out if you just subtract the pH values and then take the ten to the power of the negative difference, to find the H ion concentration? (do you get understand that? haha)Can you check if I am right with this pH question!?
[H+] at pH 7.35 = 10^-7.35 = 4.46*10^-8
[H+] at pH 7.45 = 10^-7.45 = 3.54*10^-8
Difference = 9.2*10^-9 answer is b)
The difference is always quoted as positive. Think about this:
what is the difference between 2 an 4? answer =2
What is the difference between 4 and 2 answer : = 2
Nowhere do you say negative,
Also Answer: Remember that pH is a logarithmic scale: You will know from your mathematics classes that if you subtract logarithms, you are not finding the difference, but you are dividing. That is why you get an incorrect answer.
If you divide 4.46*10^-8 by 3.54*10^-8 you get 1.259
If you subtract 7.45-7.35 you get 0.1. = 10^0.1 = 1.259
This latter method is not the way to do this type of problem because you are not finding the difference.Can you check if I am right with this pH question!?
Yes. pH of 7.35 is [H+] = 4.47*10^-8;
pH of 7.45 is [H+] = 3.55*10^-8.
Difference is c.
You cannot use your second technique because subtracting logs does not do the same thing as subtracting the exponentials; it is the result of dividing.
10^2 - 10^1 =(100-10) = 90.
Take logs and use your technique gives you 2-1 = 1 which raised to the tenth power is 10 which is not the same thing at all but which is 100/10.
yes, that's correct.
i thought i had to divide -9.2 * 10^-9 by 3 considering there's 3 H in H3O+, but i assumed that there's only 1 H+ and the rest is water there?
..
and ur 2nd question, of course it doesn't work.
is 10^(-7.45 - (-7.35)) same with 10^(-7.45) - 10^(-7.35)?
lol.
xD
/////////////// definitions
pH = -LOG([H(+)])
';pH equals the negative LOG of the Hydrogen ion concentration, expressed in terms of moles per liter';
///////////// calculations
7.35 = -LOG([H(+)])
-7.35 = LOG([H(+)])
10^(-7.35) = [H(+)]
[H(+)] = 4.46E-8
7.45 = -LOG([H(+)])
-7.45 = LOG([H(+)])
10^(-7.45) = [H(+)]
[H(+)] = 3.54E-8
DELTA([H(+)]) = 3.54E-8 - 4.46E-8 = -9.2E-9
The change is actually a decease, so the answer is negative, so ';c'; is correct. Higher pH values mean a decrease in the hydrogen ion concentration. However, there is no such thing as an actual negative concentration. What has been calculated is a change in pH. This is sort of like working with electrical engineering where voltage is the difference between two points in a circuit, not a single value in itself.
///////////////// how it work
You can't subtract LOG values and have them behave like ordinary numbers. On a LOG scale, subtraction is equivalent to division and addition of LOGS is multiplying the numbers they represent.
For example, LOG(100) - LOG(10) = 2-1 = 1. 10^(1) = 10 and 100/10 also = 10.
LOG(100) + LOG(10) = 2 + 1 = 3. 100*10 = 1000. LOG(1000) = 3.
Not too hard once you get the haing of this sort of thing.
FYI: The natural log function is just what happens when 1/x is integrated. Nice to know what natural logs actually represent. Too bad they never actually explained this in college.
The range of blood pH that is considered normal in humans is 7.35 to 7.45. If a person's blood pH changes from 7.35 to 7.45, what is the change in hydronium ion concentration ([H30+])?
a) 1.3 * 10^-8 M
b) 9.2 * 10^-9 M
c) -9.2 * 10^-9 M
d) -1.3 * 10^-8 M
e) -2.3 * 10^-8 M
I get (c) and I found this by actually calculating the hydronium ion concentration at each end of the acceptable pH range and finding the difference. This was done by taking ten to the power of the negative value of the pH. Since an increase in pH results in a decrease in hydronium ion concentration, the answer should be negative. Can you check if I am right!?
ALSO, I tried it this way and it didn't work, and I'm curious why: how come it doesnt work out if you just subtract the pH values and then take the ten to the power of the negative difference, to find the H ion concentration? (do you get understand that? haha)Can you check if I am right with this pH question!?
[H+] at pH 7.35 = 10^-7.35 = 4.46*10^-8
[H+] at pH 7.45 = 10^-7.45 = 3.54*10^-8
Difference = 9.2*10^-9 answer is b)
The difference is always quoted as positive. Think about this:
what is the difference between 2 an 4? answer =2
What is the difference between 4 and 2 answer : = 2
Nowhere do you say negative,
Also Answer: Remember that pH is a logarithmic scale: You will know from your mathematics classes that if you subtract logarithms, you are not finding the difference, but you are dividing. That is why you get an incorrect answer.
If you divide 4.46*10^-8 by 3.54*10^-8 you get 1.259
If you subtract 7.45-7.35 you get 0.1. = 10^0.1 = 1.259
This latter method is not the way to do this type of problem because you are not finding the difference.Can you check if I am right with this pH question!?
Yes. pH of 7.35 is [H+] = 4.47*10^-8;
pH of 7.45 is [H+] = 3.55*10^-8.
Difference is c.
You cannot use your second technique because subtracting logs does not do the same thing as subtracting the exponentials; it is the result of dividing.
10^2 - 10^1 =(100-10) = 90.
Take logs and use your technique gives you 2-1 = 1 which raised to the tenth power is 10 which is not the same thing at all but which is 100/10.
yes, that's correct.
i thought i had to divide -9.2 * 10^-9 by 3 considering there's 3 H in H3O+, but i assumed that there's only 1 H+ and the rest is water there?
..
and ur 2nd question, of course it doesn't work.
is 10^(-7.45 - (-7.35)) same with 10^(-7.45) - 10^(-7.35)?
lol.
xD
/////////////// definitions
pH = -LOG([H(+)])
';pH equals the negative LOG of the Hydrogen ion concentration, expressed in terms of moles per liter';
///////////// calculations
7.35 = -LOG([H(+)])
-7.35 = LOG([H(+)])
10^(-7.35) = [H(+)]
[H(+)] = 4.46E-8
7.45 = -LOG([H(+)])
-7.45 = LOG([H(+)])
10^(-7.45) = [H(+)]
[H(+)] = 3.54E-8
DELTA([H(+)]) = 3.54E-8 - 4.46E-8 = -9.2E-9
The change is actually a decease, so the answer is negative, so ';c'; is correct. Higher pH values mean a decrease in the hydrogen ion concentration. However, there is no such thing as an actual negative concentration. What has been calculated is a change in pH. This is sort of like working with electrical engineering where voltage is the difference between two points in a circuit, not a single value in itself.
///////////////// how it work
You can't subtract LOG values and have them behave like ordinary numbers. On a LOG scale, subtraction is equivalent to division and addition of LOGS is multiplying the numbers they represent.
For example, LOG(100) - LOG(10) = 2-1 = 1. 10^(1) = 10 and 100/10 also = 10.
LOG(100) + LOG(10) = 2 + 1 = 3. 100*10 = 1000. LOG(1000) = 3.
Not too hard once you get the haing of this sort of thing.
FYI: The natural log function is just what happens when 1/x is integrated. Nice to know what natural logs actually represent. Too bad they never actually explained this in college.
Neon Tetras and water quality tolerance?
I've had an assortment of tetras in a 29g tank for about a year now in RO water. After a recent addition of 6 more, bringing my total up to about 35, I noticed they started to look stressed. I did a quick check of the water and found the pH was at 5.0. Was a bit shocked by this. After 5 days of adding in a small amount of dechlorinated tap water I got the pH to 6.5 and everyone started looking better. I keep up with my weekly water changes. Hence my concern. The pH going for a good 6.8 to 5.0 (or less) in under a week is not something I want to happen.
After this little episode, I am considering adapting them to tap water, which is buffered against pH change... however, the parameters aren't exactly ideal from what everything I've researched tells me neons prefer. The reason I'm considering this now is they are going to be moving into a new 55g tank in a few weeks, so if I am going to adapt them to tap water, now is the time to do it.
Current water conditions in their tank is:
GH 4
KH 1
pH 6.5
Water conditions out of the tap are:
GH 11
KH 9
pH 8
As you can see, it's not likely tap water will change pH values on me. My question to those with experience with neon tetras is: How will they do in the tap water in my area? Please, only answer if you have experience with neons. Thanks!Neon Tetras and water quality tolerance?
Thats the problem with using pure RO water in a tank. It's TOO pure.
The hardness is very low, and that means it takes very little acidic material to crash the pH.
Adding a little treated tap water as you have done is the best option. Mix back a little tap water (maybe 20%?) with your RO water to get the pH you want and it will be more stable as there will now be some hardness to act as a buffer.
IanNeon Tetras and water quality tolerance?
You have two options;
Either use a buffer solution designed to make RO water optimum for amazon species or what |i would do is mix RO water with dechlorinated tap water.
Try two parts RO to one part tap and premix it before adding.brazilian wax experience home theater
After this little episode, I am considering adapting them to tap water, which is buffered against pH change... however, the parameters aren't exactly ideal from what everything I've researched tells me neons prefer. The reason I'm considering this now is they are going to be moving into a new 55g tank in a few weeks, so if I am going to adapt them to tap water, now is the time to do it.
Current water conditions in their tank is:
GH 4
KH 1
pH 6.5
Water conditions out of the tap are:
GH 11
KH 9
pH 8
As you can see, it's not likely tap water will change pH values on me. My question to those with experience with neon tetras is: How will they do in the tap water in my area? Please, only answer if you have experience with neons. Thanks!Neon Tetras and water quality tolerance?
Thats the problem with using pure RO water in a tank. It's TOO pure.
The hardness is very low, and that means it takes very little acidic material to crash the pH.
Adding a little treated tap water as you have done is the best option. Mix back a little tap water (maybe 20%?) with your RO water to get the pH you want and it will be more stable as there will now be some hardness to act as a buffer.
IanNeon Tetras and water quality tolerance?
You have two options;
Either use a buffer solution designed to make RO water optimum for amazon species or what |i would do is mix RO water with dechlorinated tap water.
Try two parts RO to one part tap and premix it before adding.
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